110 | March• 2018
HONG KONG REVISITED
V
ICTORIA HARBOUR
is breathtaking, es-
pecially during the
nightly laser show,
when the pleasure
junks, ferries and container ships
seemtodanceinthelights.Onthis
warm April night last year, my hus-
band,Jules,andIarestandingat
therailingofarooftoprestauranton
HongKongIsland,inaweatthespec-
tacularskyline.Brightlylitskyscrap-
ers–some1300ofwhichareover
100metreshigh,byfarthemostof
anycityintheworld–spikethenight
skyaroundusandacrosstheteeming
harbour on Kowloon Peninsula.
Asthebreezeshiftsourhair,we
feel Hong Kong’s energy. In the dis-
tancetwinklethelightsofTsingMa
suspension bridge, the world’s longest
forcarsandtrains,whiskingpeople
towardsthemodern20-year-oldair-
portonLantauIsland.Beyonditisa
nearly completed multi-billion-dollar
bridge linking Hong Kong to Zhuhai
in mainland China and the gambling
haven of Macau.
Itfeelsgoodtobeback.JulesandI
livedhereinthe1990s,beforeBritain
relinquishedHongKongtoChina
in1997.Now,20yearslater,we’ve
returned for ten days to see how
thecityhasfared.It’salsoour20th
wedding anniversary. Where better
to celebrate it than in the city where
we met?
NEXT MORNING,we leave our Cause-
way Bay hotel and walk towards Wan
Chai,adistricttwokilometresaway.
Walkingisthebestwaytoexperience
Hong Kong’s colourful sights, sounds
andsmells.Firstwemustnegotiate
throngsofSaturdayshoppersherein
this retail mecca.
We join the sea of people in a wide
pedestrian crossing on Yee Wo Street
thatleadsuspastoneofthecity’s
largest department stores, Sogo,
swathedinpostersadvertisingde-
signer labels. Young women sport-
ing sleek heels and luxury handbags
- a couple of them with beribboned
apricotpoodlestuckedunderanarm - are a common sight this morning.
BythetimewereachWanChai,
we’veleftthebrandshoppersbehind.
ThisdistrictisgrittierthanCauseway
Bay,althoughitsformerreputation
for girly bars has somewhat given
waytoshinyofficetowers.AtBow-
rington Road market, which spans
a couple of blocks, housewives are
1km
VICTORIA
HAR
BO
UR
CAUSEWAY
BAY
CENTRAL^ WANCHAI
TSIM
SHA
TSUI
KOWLOON
HONGKONG
ISLAND