11
Secrets From The Test Kitchen
Meringues
Mastering meringue is easy –
once you understand the basics,
you’ll always rise to the occasion.Egg whites
AS WITH MOST BAKING, it’s best to have the ingredients
at room temperature. Beat egg whites only until soft peaks
form before you start adding the sugar; if you beat the
whites until they are stiff and dry, the sugar will take
longer to dissolve.
EGG WHITES WON’T WHIPif they come into contact
with any fat – that’s why it’s so importantto make sure
you don’t end up with any yolk in the egg whites when you
separate them. If it does, you can usually scoop out the
yolk by dipping the shell in the whites – it’s also the best
way of removing any bits of shell which may accidentally
end up in the bowl, too.
MAKE SUREthere’s no grease in the bowl or on the beaters,
by wiping them with a piece of paper towel that has been
dipped in lemon juice or vinegar. Meringue mixtures are
beaten to either soft or firm peak stage. Soft peaks mean the
mixture will barely support itself and the peak will usually
lean over and curl to one side. Firm peaks mean the mixture
is glossy and smooth and will hold its shape.Adding sugar
Add sugar to egg whites 1 tablespoon at a time and make
sure it’s dissolved before adding more. If the sugar doesn’t
dissolve properly, the meringue can “weep” droplets of
moisture during and after baking. To make sure the sugar
is properly dissolved, rub a small quantity of the meringue
mixture between your fingertips. If it feels smooth, the
sugar is dissolved; if it feels grainy, you need to keep
beating for a while longer.Moisture
Moisture is meringue’s worst enemy. Try to bake on a
day when it’s not raining or humid. Moisture will cause the
meringue to weep. Meringues are based on a classic amount
of sugar: ¼ cup (60g) caster sugar per egg white. This
may vary slightly with the weight of the eggs. For example,
in a six−egg pavlova, it could mean a variation, up and
down, of as much as three tablespoons (¼ cup) of sugar.
It’s impossible to estimate for each and every recipe,
so experience will sort out most inconsistencies.HOW CAN I TELL
IFMY PAVLOVA
IS COOKED?
The pavlova will
feel firm and dry
when it’s done.
The average-sized
pavlova needs
to dry out at a
really low oven
temperature for
about 1½ hours,
and it should be as
white as possible.
If you can spare
it, extra time in the
oven, still at a low
temperature, will
make thecrust of
the pavlova harder
and, in general,
easier to handle.MY PAVLOVA
COLLAPSED
DURING
COOKING,
WHY?
The mixture
was overbeaten.
Once the sugar
is dissolved and
the mixture is
thick and glossy
(a trail is left when
beaters are lifted),
the meringue
is ready.Q&A
ITALIAN MERINGUE
An Italian meringue uses
a sugar syrup instead of
sugar. It’s important to
add the hot sugar syrup
slowly in a thin, steady
stream to the egg whites
while they are beating
on a medium speed.
If the sugar syrup is
added too quickly, it will
cook the egg whites and
the mixture will have to
be discarded. By the
time all the syrup is
added, the meringue
should be barely warm
and ready to use.
An Italian meringue
is more stable than a
traditional meringue; it
is almost impossible to
overbeat the mixture.