P
ittsburgh exists for three reasons:
the Monongahela, the Allegheny
and the Ohio. These rivers,
flowing through the heart of this
western Pennsylvania city define its history
as an innovative technology hub; its
architecture, which is brawny and graceful;
and its culture, where a thriving arts district
anchors downtown. Today, they also offer a
focus for outdoor fun: cleaner and greener,
this metro area of 1 .2 million people goes to
the riverfront for play. Discovering them is
now easier than ever, with new direct British
Airways flights connecting Heathrow to
Pittsburgh International from June 20 22.
THE GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE
The Allegheny Mountains, underlaid with
iron ore and coal, made Pittsburgh’s fortune.
For generations, the city’s bridges carried
the steel made here, but over the past 30
years, rusty riverfront railways have been
converted to public cycling paths. Discover
them along the Great Allegheny Passage,
routinely hailed as one of the US’ best long-
distance bike trails. It begins at Point State
Park — a hilly urban forest punctuated by a
150ft fountain — which marks the confluence
of the three rivers. Follow the trail along
the city’s waterside Downtown district and
beyond, whether it’s an afternoon jaunt to a
riverside beer garden or a 30 0-mile through-
trip to Washington, DC. Day trips to scenic
trail towns like Ohiopyle make it a popular
weekend choice, too.
POSTCARD VIEWS
Brightly painted funiculars rise from water
level to the crest of Mount Washington,
a city neighbourhood with expansive views
of downtown from above. Part of the city’s
public transit system, the much-loved
antique cable-cars of the Duquesne Incline
silently climb 1 ,000ft above the confluence
— and at $5 (£6) for a round trip, they’re one
of the city’s great bargains.
Disembark at the top station to stroll to the
observation decks along the aptly-named
Grandview Avenue, which runs the length
of the mount. Alternatively, follow signs to
the 2 57-acre Emerald View Park. The city’s
newest public green space, created in 2 005,
is also one of its steepest, with switchback
hiking trails and picnic areas opening to
downtown vistas.
Mount Washington’s signature soundtrack
blends the whistles of river barges, mile-
long freight trains and wild chants and
cheers — the latter from the city’s downtown
sports stadiums. On Sunday afternoons, the
waterfront Heinz Field, a local favourite,
comes alive with black-and-yellow-clad fans
cheering the beloved Pittsburgh Steelers.
Reached by bridges, ferryboats or the city
subway, the venues are an easy stroll from
North Shore cultural attractions.
ON THE WATER
For an outing on a sternwheeler [a steamer
propelled by a paddle wheel], offering views
of downtown skyscrapers, opt for family-
friendly daytime and dinner cruises aboard
the Gateway Clipper Fleet.
Not a single working steel mill operates
within the city limits today, so for a glimpse
of the past, experience-provider Rivers
of Steel books passengers on trips up the
Monongahela to the Carrie Furnaces,
a former blast furnace. The historic landmark
has reinvented itself as a contemporary
art park, with massive sculptures, outdoor
performances and drive-in movies.ACTIVE EXPERIENCES
Discover the city from water to see it from a
new perspective. Kayak Pittsburgh — which
has plans to relocate to a flagship downtown
dock in front of the David L Lawrence
Convention Center in 2023 — operates
seasonally, with special events including
full moon evenings and fireworks displays.
The outfitter is part of Venture Outdoors,
which books various friendly, high-energy
group activities, from snowshoeing to social
hikes and art walks.
While downtown streams are generally
gentle, other local rivers get tough.
The Youghiogheny River, about a one-hour
drive south of the city, attracts daredevil
white-water rafters and expert paddlers who
‘shoot the falls’ — hurtling their kayaks over
an 1 8ft waterfall.WATERSIDE AREAS TO DISCOVER
The city centre has a wealth of attractions,
but lesser-known neighbourhoods offer
much to discover, too. Follow the Allegheny
River to St Nicholas Croatian Church in
Millvale, which honours the families who
founded the hillside town. Artist Maxo
Vanka’s murals depict the clashes of war,
capital and labour; restored and illuminated,
they’re a tribute to the generations of
immigrants who powered Pittsburgh’s mills.
The city’s ethnic riverside communities
have swapped recipes for years, and in
Lawrenceville, chefs are reinterpreting old
favourites. Apteka offers a vegan menu of
pierogies, pairing beloved Polish dumplings
with smoked cabbage and cordials of quince
and juniper, while a new international
flavour on Butler Street is Pusadee’s Garden,
serving Thai specialities in a garden space.SEE MORE ONLINE AT NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL
PLAN YOUR TRIP
British Airways operates direct flights from
London to Pittsburgh. visitpittsburgh.com