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Kashmiri cuisine draws its heritage from
two diff erent groups of people: Pandits and
Muslims. While there are diff erences between
the two groups, both off er a rich fusion of styles
and fl avours in their food. The cuisines draw
heavily on Central Asian, Afghan, Persian and
Mughal infl uences, and share an affi nity for
lamb-based dishes, cooked over a wood fi re.
Each uses an aromatic blend of spices, too,
including cloves, cinnamon, green and black
cardamom, and ground fennel and ginger.
Perhaps the most surprising diff erence
between Kashmiri Pandit and Muslim
cuisines, however, is the fact Pandits will
cook without onions or garlic. Conversely,
two ingredients that you’ll fi nd in Kashmiri
Pandit cuisine, but rarely in Kashmiri Muslim
cuisine, are hing (asafoetida), and curd- or
yoghurt-based sauces.
One of the hallmarks of Kashmiri dining
is an intricate feast called a wazwan. These
traditional banquets are prepared and cooked
by specially trained chefs known as wazas,
The ingredient
Red Kashmiri chilli
is a mild but vibrant
variety of chilli that
adds colour and a
delicious warmth of
fl avour to dishes.
A TASTE OF
Kashmir
YOU’LL FIND A RICH CULINARY CULTURE DRAWING ON
A FUSION OF INFLUENCES IN THIS HIMALAYAN REGION
descendants of master chefs who hailed from
Central Asia in the early 15th century.
There are many ways of preparing and
serving this feast, which can feature between
26 to 36 courses, all cooked simultaneously in
copper pots over fi re, and starring a variety of
meat dishes all from the same animal. Some
dishes are even cooked overnight, supervised
by a vasta waza (head chef).
Dishes commonly found in a wazwan
include methi maaz (lamb and fenugreek
curry), sheekh kebab, tabakh maaz (Kashmiri
lamb ribs), rista (saff ron-fl avoured meatball
curry), rogan josh, aab gosht (a milk-based
mutton curry) and gostaba (mutton meatballs
in a yoghurt gravy). If you ever get the chance
to enjoy a wazwan, be sure to take a spoonful of
yoghurt between each meat course: it helps to
cleanse the palate, and also to digest the these
rich, stunning dishes.
This is an edited extract from On the
Himalayan Trail, by Romy Gill, published by
Hardie Grant, £27.
Above: Rogan josh, a classic Kashmiri
dish traditionally made with lamb
ROMY GILL
is a chef and
broadcaster and
the author of On the
Himalayan Trail
MUST-TRY DISHES
MUSLIM ROGAN JOSH
With its rich gravy and vibrant flavour,
this lamb dish is one my favourite
traditional Kashmiri foods. It’s very
different to the rogan josh we’re
used to eating in the West — Kashmiri
Muslims tend to use praan, a type of
shallot, plus garlic and cockscomb
flower for colouring.
CHAMAN KALIYA
A Pandit dish of tender paneer
cheese, cooked in a mild cardamom
and fennel-scented sauce. A tasty
bowl of yellow sunshine that’s perfect
mopped up with a flatbread.
TABAKH MAAZ
A Kashmiri delicacy, these crispy,
delicate lamb ribs are enjoyed at
weddings, banquets and other
celebrations. Usually eaten on their
own, they can also be served as part
of a trami, a traditional platter.
JUL/AUG 2022 27
SMART TRAVELLER
