Reader’s Digest Australia & New Zealand – May 2019

READER’S DIGEST

May• 2019 | 49

Coleandherhusband,CarlSchmitt,
hadco-foundedtheAmericanClimb-
er ScienceProgramwith All.He
wastheguytheyreferredtoastheir
‘charismaticmegafauna’– a big,fun
presencewitha magneticpersonality
whodrewpeopletotheorganisation.
WhenColereadherfriend’scryfor
help,shequicklybeganpingingmes-
sagesacrosstheglobetoarrangea
helicopterrescue.
OnMountHimlung,Allwasspend-
ingthelongestnightofhislife.His
throatwasparched,butwithonlyone
workingarm,hecouldn’topenhiswa-
terbottle.Hesuckeddowntwoenergy
gels,andlayindazedpain.
Finallythesuncreptupthetent,
warminghischilledbody.Meanwhile,
hisfriendsweretryingtofinda rescue
teamwillingtotakeahelicopterto
suchanaltitude,wheretheairisthin
andaircraftcanacterratically.
After 18 hoursonhisback–his
brokenbodyhadtensedup,leaving
himnearparalysis– Allheardthe
whirofa helicopter.Soonafter,the
tent’sdoorunzippedandaNepali
rescuerpokedhisheadthroughthe
flap.TherescuerdraggedAllonhis
sleepingmatbefore hauling him into
the helicopter.

Asthechoppertwistedthrough

theHimalayas,Allfinallyallowedthe

relieftofloodthrough him. “I’m alive,”

hewhispered.

ASALLRECOVEREDfromhisinju-

ries,hesometimesfeltasifa partof

himhadneverescapedthecrevasse.

InMarch2015,AllvisitedRebecca

ColeinHawaii.Hewasphysically

healed,butColecouldseethather

friendwasstillshaken.

OnedaytheyclimbedMaunaLoa.

Astheytrekked,itbegantosnow–

ararityinHawaii.Beinginsnowy

mountainsforthefirsttimesincehis

accident,anddiscoveringthatthe

experiencestillmadehimfeelhappy

andatpeace,markedthebeginning

ofAll’struerecovery.

AllisnowaprofessoratWestern

WashingtonUniversity.Heisalso

fulfillingalifelongdesiretotrain

thenextgenerationofclimbersci-

entistsat theMountainEnviron-

mentsResearchInstitute,whichhe

foundedin2016.

“We all have dreams, but we

usuallysay,‘I’lldoitwhenI geta

chance,’”saysAll.“Lyingonthat

mountain,I realised you get only one

chance to live.”

STICKYSITUATION

Noparentingbooktellsyouhowtogetpudding

out of thechargingportofan iPad.

@SIMONCHOLLAND