Working in a large, specialist reptile store has many
rewards. Sharing your lifelong passion for reptiles
and amphibians with people from all walks of life,
each and every day, would have to be one of the
greatest parts of the job. Reputable reptile stores
act as a hub for keepers and breeders of all
experience levels to purchase husbandry equip-
ment, enclosures and reptile food, and most
importantly ask questions and receive helpful and
accurate information and advice.Dealing with hundreds of customers each week, we
hear many of the same questions asked on a
regular basis. This article is a compilation of some
of the most frequently asked questions as well as
some of the common misconceptions that exist
within the hobby. We are always learning and
continuously developing our knowledge and
husbandry methods. I know that the way I keep my
reptiles today is very different to how I kept and
maintained them when I received my first pet snake
twenty years ago.“My python won’t eat, what could
be going on?”Pythons may refuse food for a number of reasons.
In many cases, incorrect temperatures (usually
because the enclosure is too cold) are to blame for
a snake that is not feeding. Temperature is every-
thing when it comes to reptiles, so ensure your
python has the correct thermal gradients within its
enclosure and that you are using the right heating
equipment for the size and type of enclosure the
animal is housed in.The enclosure should also be appropriate for the
size of the animal concerned. Hatchlings and
juveniles should be kept in a much smaller environ-
ment whilst they are growing, with adequate hiding
areas so that they can feel secure. Housing a
hatchling python in a large enclosure can cause
unnecessary stress for the animal, which may result
in them refusing food.Conservationist and
wildlife advocate Ben
Dessen is Reptiles
Department Manager
at Kellyville Pets and is
passionate about
educating newcomers
to the reptile hobby. In
this issue he is out to
dispel some popular
misconceptions.Reptile FAQs – ‘Myth-busters’ Part One.Below: feeding live rodents is unnecessary and potentially
dangerous. Images by fivespots and Eric Isselee.
Far right: the term ‘penny turtle is responsible for a huge
public misconception. Images by Trent Townsend
and Robyn Mackenzie.
Image by Michael Cermak.Additionally, pythons may refuse food in the weeks
leading up to shedding their skin. If you notice a
change in the colour of your animal’s scales (they
may appear milky or have lost their sheen) and
suspect it is due for a shed, it is best not to
offer food during this period. Seasonal changes
heralding the start of cooler weather (a decrease in
ambient temperature as well as shorter day lengths)
may also cause a snake’s metabolism to slow
down, which in turn can mean it will refuse food for
the entire winter period. If your python does decide
to brumate or ’switch off’ in this fashion, there is little
more to do than to reduce daytime heating by a few
degrees, turn off the heating at night (except in very
cold areas) and wait for the onset of warmer
weather. The only cause for concern is a marked
drop in your animal’s condition during this period.Otherwise, under normal circumstances, if a
python’s environment is perfect, it is not due for a
shed and it is still refusing food after an extended
period of time, the animal could potentially be
unwell. Loss of appetite is always one of the first
signs that any animal may be sick and if you
suspect something is not right, the best course of
action is to take the animal to a specialist reptile vet
and have it professionally assessed.“Can I feed my snake a live
mouse?”Feeding a python live rodents is not recommended
and goes against the Animal Welfare Codes of
Practice in many states and territories. Pythons will
almost always eat thawed, humanely-euthanased
rodents without hesitation. Not only is it bad practice
and unnecessary to feed live rodents, it is also
potentially dangerous for your snake. Live rodents
can seriously injure a python with their sharp incisor
teeth and may also carry internal parasites that
could infect your reptile. If a thawed rodent is
adequately warmed and offered to the snake in the
correct manner, the snake will assume it is alive; it
makes no difference to the reptile.“Is there such thing as a
‘penny turtle’?”There is no such thing as a ‘penny turtle’. The
term was once used to describe hatchling
turtles and is responsible for one of the
biggest reptile misconceptions that still exists
amongst the general public to this day. All
species of Australian freshwater turtle will
grow quiet large, with some of the smallest
species easily reaching 20cm in carapace
size and some bigger species capable of
reaching 40cm or more! If set up correctly,
hatchling turtles will grow very quickly and
can reach their full size within three to fouryears. It is cruel to keep turtles in small tanks for too
long as this can stunt their growth and significantly
shortens their lifespan.“I have heard sand is a bad
substrate for bearded dragons, is
this true?”Another widespread misconception is that you
cannot keep bearded dragons on a sand substrate
as it may lead to impactions and blockages. Sand is
a perfectly safe, natural, aesthetically-pleasing
substrate for not only bearded dragons, but also
many other species of agamids, monitors and
geckos. Many Australian lizard species live in arid
and semi-arid, sandy environments in the wild and
their bodies are perfectly capable of ingesting and
passing small granules of sand with no ill-effects.Fine-grade, low-dust desert sand is a safe option
and is available from specialist reptile stores. The
variety we use at Kellyville Pets is not clay-based,
so it is silky smooth and very easy to sieve and spot
clean. Importantly, it does not stain or discolour the
reptiles. Whilst this sand is slightly more expensive
than the ‘brickies sand’ that you can purchase from
a landscape supplies store, it is intended for animal
use and does not contain coarser particles that may
be dangerous to animals.Coarser particulate substrates such as coconut
fibre, breeders choice, aspen and repti-bark should
not be used as bearded dragon substrates as these
pose a serious risk of intestinal blockages and
impactions.