iHerp_Australia_-_November_-_December_2018

(Barré) #1

“When should I use a red heat


globe for my reptile?”


Red globes were once thought to be a great source
of nocturnal heat for reptiles because the animals
could not see the red light. We now know this is not
true and using a red light at night can actually be
harmful to your reptile. It is important that captive
reptiles have a natural day and night cycle in order
for their bodies to function effectively and create
hormones essential for their health. Using a red light
at night can alter the production of specific
hormones and lead to stress and a number of
health complications.


Red lights are really only effective as a daytime heat
source for some nocturnal species, such as pythons
and geckos, that don’t necessarily require bright,
white light during the day. Ceramic heat emitters
make the perfect night-time heat source as they
produce heat without any visible light and come in a
range of wattages. It is also important to note that
red lights should not be used for bearded dragons
under any circumstances during the day or night.
Dragons and other diurnal lizards require bright,
white day basking globes that replicate the heat and
light given off by the sun.


“My UV globe looks just as bright


as it did a year ago so I haven’t


replaced it.”


All ultraviolet (UV) globes and tubes have a limited
lifespan during which they give off useful amounts
of UVB. Whilst in some instances these globes and
tubes can continue to emit visible light for years, the
UVB significantly deteriorates after a much shorter
amount of time. Different types and brands of UVB
lights all have varying lifespans. Compact UVB
bulbs generally only give off useful amounts of UVB
for between 4-6 months, with some of the better
brands lasting 9-12 months. T5 UVB tubes are long
lasting and can give off strong UVB for between
12 - 14 months in some cases, whilst T8 tubes are
very weak and must be replaced every 4-6 months.
A good reptile store will be able to test your lights
for you using a UVB reading device to let you know
if they are still effective. It is also a smart idea to
write the date the light was first used on the actual
bulb so you know exactly how old it is. (See Ben’s
article in Issue 3 of iHerp Australia for a detailed
overview of reptile lighting).

“I don’t need a UV light as the
enclosure is near a window.”

Almost 100% of ultraviolet light is filtered by passing
through glass or plastic. Therefore, even if your
reptile enclosure is positioned in a well-lit room with
plenty of natural light, it is still essential to use a
good quality UVB bulb or tube. Furthermore, fly-
screen mesh, or the mesh used on top of reptile
enclosures, can reduce and weaken UVB light by
up to 50% or more. UVB light also weakens

Left: turtles, particularly
hatchlings, do not enjoy
being handled or taken
out of water for
extended periods.
Image by kunanon.
Below: it is widely
accepted that bearded
dragons should be
housed individually in
captivity. Image by
Robert Eastman.

Image by Michael Cermak.

significantly the further an animal moves away from
the light source, so for taller enclosures it is
important that an animal is able to bask close to the
UVB globe or tube, in order for it to be effective.

“Turtles are so cute - can I take
mine out and play with it?”

Many people are drawn to hatchling turtles because
of their small size and cute appearance. Despite
their permanent smile, turtles, particularly hatch-
lings, do not enjoy being handled or being taken out
of water for extended periods. Turtles feel most
vulnerable and threatened when out of water and
regularly handling a hatchling turtle can cause
significant stress for the animal. So turtles should be
considered as more of an ‘observational’ reptile. It is
also important to remember that turtles do not stay
small for very long and can live for 50 years or even
longer. They are also a relatively high maintenance
pet reptile, as a turtle tank requires a lot more
upkeep than a lizard or snake enclosure.

“My bearded dragon looks lonely;
does he need a friend?”

Bearded dragons, like many other reptiles, are
solitary creatures and it is widely accepted amongst
keepers that in captivity it is best to house them
individually. Bearded dragons do not get lonely, and
in fact they are actually much happier when housed
on their own. Keeping more than one bearded
dragon in an enclosure together is dangerous and in
many instances leads to dominance and aggression
issues.

We see many cases of bearded dragons that are
housed together that are the same age but vastly
different in size. In more extreme cases bearded
dragons will fight and can seriously injure each
other. Larger bearded dragons will also not hesitate
to cannibalise and eat smaller specimens. When
keeping reptiles, it is important not to project our
human emotions and perspectives on to the
animals; rather, put yourself inside their head and
think like a reptile! (See Ben’s article in Issue 4 of
iHerp Australia for a detailed overview of the
dangers of reptile cohabitation).

This article outlines just a few of the more common
questions that we get asked on a regular basis at
Kellyville Pets. More frequently asked questions
(and myth busting!) will be included in the next
issue. If you have a question that you would like to
be included or have received conflicting advice on
something, feel free to write to me through iHerp
Australia or at Kellyville Pets.

Kellyville

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