NationalGeographicTravellerAustraliaandNewZealandWinter2018

(Greg DeLong) #1

80 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER


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Birmingham


ALABAMA


It began life as a steel centre in 1871 and soon became Alabama’s biggest metropolis, earning it the
nickname Magic City. That industry is long gone but still honoured at the Sloss Furnaces. It closed
in 1971, but became a National Historic Landmark and cultural centre. Take a self-guided tour and
check out the metal-arts workshops or catch a concert. A statue of Vulcan, the Roman god of iron,
watches over the city from Vulcan Park and Museum, and this is a great spot from where to get
your bearings. Also worth exploring are some of the revitalised neighbourhoods, like Avondale,
woodlawn and the Loft District, which are dotted with hip bars, restaurants and shops.


EAT THIS
Get a full menu of southern classics
at Saw’s Juke Joint. its walls are
lined in vintage signs, there’s often
live blues musicians and it’s a self-
described ‘upscale dive’. Order the
pork ’n’ greens or barbecue chicken
with white sauce then load up on
sides like fried green tomatoes,
onion rings and sweet potato fries.

SEE THAT
there was once a time when life
was very different in alabama. it
was at the centre of the civil rights
movement and the city was once
known as Bombingham, such was
the violence that rocked it. Follow
the Birmingham Civil Rights
Heritage Trail, which traces march
routes and marks sites of note,
including the 16th Street Baptist
church and kelly ingram Park, in
a six-block area. Be sure to stop
at the Birmingham Civil Rights
Institute, where the Movement
Gallery tells the harrowing,
heartbreaking tales of the battle for
civil rights between 1955 and 1963.

DON’T MISS
Whether or not you’re a petrol
head, you’ll want to visit Barber
Motorsports Park. it hosts the
indy Grand Prix in april and
Motoamerica Superbikes in
September, but is also home to
the Barber Vintage Motorsports
Museum. in 1988, local
businessman and former race-
car driver George Barber began
collecting classic cars then vintage
motorcycles. now the museum
holds more than 1400 motorbikes,
the world’s most extensive lotus
collection and rare racing cars.

AFTER DARK
if you’re around on Saturday night,
there’s only one place to be: Gip’s
Place. it’s a proper, old-school juke
joint in a tin-roofed roadhouse in
Bessemer, about 30 kilometres from
Birmingham. the walls are festooned
with posters of blues legends, and
the same style is coming from the
stage. Just don’t forget to BYO beer.

THAT ONE TIME OF YEAR
not everyone wants to hang out in a
field, exposed to impending weather,
during a music festival. thankfully,
during august, the bars and small
venues of downtown Birmingham
are taken over by Secret Stages. Set
your sights on checking out as many
of the more than 60 up-and-coming
bands on the bill as possible because
the next big thing or your favourite
new act might well be among them.

A memorial to
Martin Luther
King in Kelly
Ingram Park.

Henry ‘Gip’ Gipson at his
eponymous juke joint.
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