National_Geographic_Traveller_India-May_2018

THE JOURNEY

130 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | MAY 2018

I

t is a waltz with the clouds and the accompanying
music, a traditional Bhutanese instrumental track.
The airplane, as if it were a giant metallic bird, glides
past mountains—always at an angle—minutes before
landing at Paro international airport. I am excited.
Navigating the maze of mountains, my aircraft swerves at
sharp angles. Only a handful of trained pilots can land safely on
this airstrip nestled deep in a valley. When the aircraft’s wheels
hit the tarmac, there is applause from all the passengers.
Walking to the two-door entry of the airport, designed like
a typical Bhutanese mansion, the word that comes to mind is
“quaint.” Cliché, maybe, but for now, it perfectly describes my
first glimpse of Bhutan. It is hardly surprising considering how
the mountain kingdom chose to be isolated from the world for
a long time.
Foreign tourists were allowed in Bhutan only in the 1970s
and cable television and the Internet made an appearance
almost three decades later, in 1999. The country also has rather
unconventional economic metrics: Gross National Happiness
(GNH), brought into effect by the fourth king. By all accounts,
despite not being a rich country, Bhutan is touted as one of
the happiest and the greenest in the world. The urban-bred
cynic in me though cannot wrap my head around the GNH or
a monarchy, in the old-fashioned sense of the term.

One of the first things Sajan, my guide from the local tour

company Heavenly Bhutan, tells me, sets the tone for this trip.

“Our Druk Gyalpo, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, is the

fifth king and on his coronation Bhutan became a democratic

constitutional monarchy. We love our king. Look at everything

we have—free healthcare and education, so much greenery. Of

course, there are some problems but at the same time, there is

so much more happening now.”

THIMPHU

Bhutan’s capital city is a microcosm of the country. Thimphu’s

traffic light-less streets (traffic inspectors direct cars with

hand gestures); its museums and factories; and its people and

legends acquaint me with the traditions, culture, politics and

life of a country in the midst of change.

Thanks to isolation and a strong emphasis, by law, on pre-

serving its culture, Bhutan—and Thimphu—has an antiquated

charm. Skyscrapers do not impose on views of a blue sky or

faraway snowy peaks. Cosy shops and curio stores have not

made way for shopping malls. Few restaurants advertise in-

ternational cuisine. People still spend evenings at the central

Dzongs are ancient forts built

as spiritual and administrative

headquarters. Thimphu’s

Tashichho Dzong houses the

throne room, and offices of the

king and other ministers.

ANDREW STRANOVSKY PHOTOGRAPHY/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES