MAY 2018 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 59
JAPAN3.13 p.m.
Wrestle Mania
It’s off-season for sumo wrestling, but I luck out:
There’s an all-day exhibition tournament of the
yokozuna—the grand champions—in an arena in the
centre of the city, including an appearance by Hakuho
Sho, a 32-year-old Mongolian superhero who holds the
record for most career wins. When Hakuho first arrived
in Tokyo, at age 15, he was so small no sumo “stable,” or train-
ing facility, would take him in; now he’s the Greatest of All Time.
The main rule of sumo seems to be: Push your competitor out
of the ring. The men square off, pulling the tassels around their
waists to the side, and then slap their thighs. Actually I have no
idea what’s going on. The last match of the day is a nail-biter:
As his winning move, Hakuho somehow lifts up his 293-pound
opponent and drops him outside the ring like a rag doll.
5.23 p.m.
Quitting Time
I follow the Japanese salarymen to Omoide Yokocho, nick-
named Piss Alley, a series of narrow, winding alleyways lined
with yakitori joints beside the train tracks in Shinjuku. I pick
a spot that looks the most fun, sliding open a glass door to
Ucchan, which has 15 seats and as many people smoking. The
bartender flips the menu over to the English side, which prom-
ises—for 1,650 yen (or about `1,000)—“6 kinds of Japanese
skewered pork and beer set,” featuring “giblets, innards &
organ meat etc.” I’m alarmed by the use of “etc.” But each stick
is spiced to perfection.
10.30 p.m.
Kampai!
That’s Japanese for “cheers!” Here’s another phrase
I learned: nomikai. Which is a uniquely Japanese
phrase that basically translates to “forced fun.” Or
team drinking. If the boss takes the office out for
drinks, you can’t go home until he does. For nomikai,
there’s no better experience than the Golden Gai, a
series of six snug Shinjuku alleyways packed with
more than 200 Barbie-size bars—four-stool watering
holes, including maybe the world’s smallest karaoke
bar. From an architectural standpoint, it’s a time
capsule view of old Tokyo. It’s also bonkers fun. At
a locals-only place called Oku Tei, the bartender
charges me a $10 cover. I don’t blame her. Everyone
is trying to keep the Golden Gai real.With living space cramped
and pets often forbidden,
Tokyoites head to places like
Bengal Cat’s Forest
café for feline frolics.