AustralianGourmetTraveller-June2018

The Darling

Penthouse.

Establishment Room.

ESTABLISHMENT HOTEL

Is that a mirror ball being wheeled through the breakfast room? Of course

it is. The Establishment is that kind of place: grown-up enough to ofer

breakfast in an atrium with cathedral ceiling, but still a bit rock ’n’ roll.

Accessed via a gritty city alley, it’s an in-the-know secret that largely

bypasses the suited crowd in the rowdy bar. Guestrooms retain all the

character of the building’s former life as a textile warehouse, with timber-

beamed ceilings and thickly textured walls. To this has been added every

chic accessory the modern traveller requires: cowhide rugs, iPads, a deep

bath, Netflix, a Bose sound system and, quaintly, a CD library. Discretion is

the keynote: staf are there when you need them and vanish when you don’t.

5 Bridge La, Sydney, (02) 9240 3100, merivale.com.au

Room service from Mr Wong,

Dan Hong’s buzzy Cantonese

restaurant around the corner, is

a must. Order wok-fried beef with

kampot pepper and onions, add

Netflix and chill.

The Merivale entertainment

empire is arrayed around you,

with nine bars and restaurants in the

hotel complex. From cocktails at the

speakeasy-style Palmer & Co to the

louche lounge at Hemmesphere,

you’re spoiled for night-time choices.

Establishment Garden is

a magnificent setting for

breakfast, the exposed brick walls

covered in greenery and topped

by a lofty glass ceiling. À la carte

oferings include an Asian-style

omelette of Alaskan snow crab, and

ricotta hotcakes with honeycomb

and banana jam.

From a Tank Stream Sour

at Establishment Bar to The

Extravagant (18-year-old whisky

and Palmer & Co’s spiced rum) at

Hemmesphere, there’s something

for everyone. Or reach for the Ruinart

in the minibar.

WHERECBD.COST

From $399, without

breakfast.AT A

GLANCE31 rooms

and penthouses; bars,

restaurants, gym, paid

self-parking.IN ROOM

Free WiFi, iPad, Netflix,

Bose sound system,

bath, cofee machine,

pillow menu, Le Labo

toiletries.BEST ROOMS

Besides the stylish

120-square-metre

penthouses (with priority

seating in all Merivale

restaurants), your

best bets are the

Establishment rooms

• nab numbers 46 and
  47 for the wow factor.

THE DARLING

Yes, The Darling is part of The Star

casino complex, but it exists within

its own glamorous galaxy. Guests are

nevertheless treated like high-rollers

• attentive porters usher them through
  the vast lobby with its monumental
  black marble pillars and vivid red
  accents, and check-in comes with a
  warm welcome and a smooth rundown
  of what’s on the cards. Entry-level
  guestrooms are well appointed, with
  marble bathrooms and rain showers,
  while a step up to a Jewel Suite, with
  city or harbour views, doubles the size
  and adds a bath and extra luxe. Easy
  access to good restaurants, just
  beyond the lobby, is part of the deal,
  most notably Barbadian-flavoured
  Momofuku Seiobo.80 Pyrmont St,
  Pyrmont, (02) 9777 9000,
  thedarling.com.au

A caviar facial at The Darling

Spa might be the ultimate

in face bling, while the signature

Moroccan Hammam Ritual promises

a rosewater-scented escape.

Joggers are ofered

complimentary water and

running maps in the lobby. The

25-metre outdoor pool is a good

place to cool down after the

morning’s exertion.

Breakfast at Sokyo, the

Japanese restaurant of the

lobby, is a highlight. The Continental

bufet ($28) includes Asian accents

such as soba noodles with condiments,

while the à la carte ($38, including the

bufet) features the sumo breakfast –

full English with a Japanese twist – and

choushoku, with fish of the day, miso

soup, onsen tamago egg, edamame,

rice and Japanese pickles.

Sokyo has a full house of sake,

Japanese-leaning cocktails,

an impressive wine list with plenty

by the glass, and Champagnes that

stretch to the high stakes.

WHEREDarlingHarbour, west of the CBD.COSTFrom $540, without breakfast.AT A GLANCE171 rooms and suites;

bars, restaurants, cafés, pool, day spa, gym, steam room, paid valet and self-parking.IN ROOMFree WiFi, smart TV,

Kube Bluetooth speaker, some baths, cofee machine, Lalique toiletries.BEST ROOMSThe Stellar Suites place you in

the firmament on the 15th floor. The ceilings are high and the views expansive over the city, bridge or towards Balmain.

SYDNEY

158 GOURMET TRAVELLER