PUMPHOUSE POINT
Equal parts boutique hotel and bucket-list experience, Pumphouse Point is
the ultimate getaway in the experiential age. Minimalist luxury colours every
aspect of a stay at this heritage hydroelectric landmark on Lake St Clair, from
lakeside Shorehouse rooms to the new ultra-modern retreat. Mohair throws,
wood-fired lounges and in-room fridges stocked with Tasmanian treats
mean that roughing it in this World Heritage wilderness sanctuary is confined
to the great outdoors. Walks range from gentle to challenging, or borrow
a rowboat and fishing rod for ofshore exploration. The setting screams
Instagram, but the absence of WiFi and abundance of serenity suggest
switching of is the better option.1 Lake St Clair Rd, Lake St Clair,
0428 090 436, pumphousepoint.com.auThe Shorehouse’s dining room
and lounge has been cleverly
renovated with exposed timbers, firefly
bulbs and grey-felt seating pods.
Staf are on speed dial, to
deliver a complimentary loaf
of warmed bread, emergency brie or
pâté, or simply to provide guidance
on catching that elusive trout (and
then arranging for the chef to cook it).
A breakfast bufet with a
diference features free-range
eggs for guests to boil to taste (timers
provided), toasties to assemble and
granola to anoint with local yoghurt
and honey. Communal three-course
set-menu dinners ($56) are served
family style. Raid in-room fridges for
Coal River Farm brie, wood-roasted
salmon, Mures chowder and plenty
more for a carpet picnic.
Three honesty bars and in-room
fridges feature a top-notch
selection of Tasmanian wine, beer
and mixers.WHEREAbout175km
from Launceston and
Hobart, a three-hour
drive from both.COST
From $280, with
breakfast.AT A GLANCE
19 rooms and villa;
bars, restaurant, free
parking, free bikes and
rowboats, adults only.
IN ROOMNo WiFi,
cofee machines, some
baths, pillow menu,
Sukin toiletries, heated
bathroom floor.
BEST ROOMThe new
on-shore Retreat is an
ultra-luxe, utterly private
escape for two featuring
indoor and outdoor
baths, wood heater
and well-stocked
complimentary minibar.MONA PAVILIONS
The bespoke soaps are $40 a bar.
Bianca is scented with lemon myrtle,
Casey with tangerine. Each is shaped
like a vulva – studies so detailed they’d
be sure to be recognisable to, well,
anyone intimate with Bianca and Casey.
Welcome to Mona, the Museum of Old
and New Art, an adult playground
where provocation is the order of the
day. Set on the banks of the Derwent,
its freestanding pavilions are like
giant, airy wünderkammers stufed
with remarkably good wine (as local
as the estate, as global as half-bottles
of good Burgundy), intriguing books
(monographs on Nolan, Boyd and
Whiteley) and artworks and antiquities
that form part of the larger collection of
the museum. A radical and impressive
proposition.655 Main Rd, Berriedale,
(03) 6277 9900, mona.net.auThis is a real art hotel, not
designed to please all comers
but a place that will deeply delight
many and stimulate more still.
They’ve gone the extra mile
when sourcing local: milk from
Ashgrove, cofee from Villino, chocolate
from Launceston, rhubarb juice from
Scottsdale, plus Poltergeist gin, Lark
whisky and great Tassie cheeses.
Mona isn’t short of places to
eat. As well as a cellar door,
café and the wild new Faro tapas
bar, the estate’s flagship restaurant,
The Source, has an exceptional wine
list and takes care of room service
for the pavilions and breakfast. Wake
up to the likes of fruit daubed with
leatherwood honey and sheep’s milk
yoghurt, or brown rice with sautéed
greens, fried eggs, lime and kimchi.
The line-up in the wine fridge
(Egly-Ouriet Champagne,
Mount Mary chardonnay, a wealth of
Tasmanian options) and a rich range
of snacks consistently vaults the
minibar intoGT’s top rankings.WHERE12kmfrom central Hobart, a 15-minute drive, or 30 minutes by ferry.COSTFrom $700, with breakfast.AT A
GLANCEEight pavilions; bars, restaurant, café, pool, gym, sauna, free parking, entry to Mona, cinema.IN ROOMFree
WiFi, balcony, bath, kitchenette, washer-dryer, pillow menu, wine fridge, Aesop toiletries.BEST ROOMThere’s much
to be said for having a Brett Whiteley in your room; the artist’s 1986Cemetery in Sicilyhangs in his eponymous pavilion.Walter pavilion.The Retreat.Hobart & TasmaniaPHOTOGRAPHY BRETT BOARDMAN (MONA) & ADAM GIBSON (MACQ01 & PUMPHOUSE POINT)
GOURMET TRAVELLER 173