it for the British territory (it’s thought the island was unknown
to South Pacific Islanders and it was certainly uninhabited).
With ships came non-native species like feral cats, goats, pigs
and rats, all of which contributed to the destruction of native
plants, birds and invertebrate species.
Thankfully, conservation has been an integral part of the
community; 75 per cent of the island is a protected park reserve
and the gradual eradication of predators has seen the return of
native species like the woodhen. Other efforts to conserve the
environment of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed island have
included capping the population at 350 residents and only allowing
400 guests at any one time. Interestingly, this hasn’t dampened
the island’s allure. If anything, it has made it more enticing, with
avid hikers, divers, wildlife lovers and beach-goers arriving on its
shores from around the globe via Sydney and Brisbane.
From the moment of touchdown at the airport, guests begin
shedding the stresses of today’s modern world. There’s no
mobile phone reception, the preferred method of travel is by
bike – for the few cars that do grace the roads, the speed limit
is a leisurely 25 kilometres an hour – and supplies are shipped
from the Australian mainland every two weeks. There is little
to distract from the natural surroundings.
A few roads weave across the island finishing at its beaches,
where glittering water and marine life await. There are the calm
waters of Lagoon Beach, which looks out towards the spectacular
coral reef. Turtles can be found paddling in the waters off the
shores of Old Settlement. A frenzy of king fish and mullets swim
in the shallows at Ned’s Beach.
Above the water, the island’s vegetation is just as abundant.
Coastal grass blankets the low lands, and towering pine and
palm trees cascade down the slopes of hills scored by rugged
dirt and root-riddled trails. The largest of these is Mount Gower.
Standing at 875 metres, Mount Gower is Lord Howe’s highest
peak and offers one of the most challenging hikes. Sheer basalt
cliffs, groves of endemic kentia palms, rope-assisted climbs and
mystical cloud forest all feature on the 14-kilometre full-day trek.
The unmarked trail requires walkers to be accompanied by a
licensed guide (there are just two on the island) and, as you’re
scrambling over boulders, finding a foothold on a tree root, scaling
a rock face and learning about the plants and wildlife found on
the mountain, you’ll understand why. The moment you pull back
the final frond curtain and are rewarded with the breathtaking
views of the island, though, the aching muscles are forgotten.
Back at the base of the mountain, with the sound of the waves
crashing against the shores, you’ll feel different. Sore, definitely.
But rejuvenated, too. There’s something to be said for being a
part of something that’s bigger than yourself, and immersing
yourself in a world moulded by time.
WINTER ISSUE 2018 37Hikers on the challenging
path up Mount Gower.