NationalGeographicTravellerAustraliaandNewZealandWinter2018

wINTER ISSUE 2018 75

Memphis

TENNESSEE

Set right on the mighty Mississippi River,

Memphis is a place of ritual and reverence.

People flock here to pay homage to Elvis, the

blues and barbecue. But there’s history here,

too. On 4 April 1968, Martin Luther King was

assassinated on the steps of the Lorraine Motel,

sending the country into chaos. Today, the

Lorraine has been transformed into the National

Civil Rights Museum. It’s not the only part of the

city being renewed – the historic South Main

district is being revamped and microbreweries,

like High Cotton Brewing Company, are

opening their doors. Don’t forget Memphis’s

vast green spaces and hit Shelby Farms Park,

an 1,800-hectare space with 65 kilometres of

paths where you can walk, bike or ride a horse.

EAT THIS

the american South is

famous for its barbecue,

but it’s different

everywhere you go.

in Memphis, it’s all

about pork. Mostly ribs,

sometimes shoulder, with

many establishments

cooking it dry rubbed with

chilli powder and paprika

and served with a side of

sauce, either with a vinegar

or tomato base. Wrap your

lips around the dry-rubbed

ribs at Central BBQ. it also

does pulled and chopped

pork, award-winning

smoked hot wings, brisket

and all the traditional sides.

SEE THAT

Do the full elvis tour with a

visit to Graceland – don’t

forget to pay your respects

at the king’s grave in the

meditation garden – which

is as Ott as you might

imagine. across the road

from the estate is elvis

Presley’s Memphis, a

museum where you can see

his cars, planes, costumes

and find out more about his

life. But don’t leave it there.

head to Sun Studio, where

Sam Phillips first recorded

musical icons including BB

king, Jerry lee lewis, carl

Perkins, Johnny cash and,

of course, elvis.

DON’T MISS

Memphis may have been

the birthplace of rock ’n’

roll, but it was also home

to Soulsville. that’s the

neighbourhood where

aretha Franklin, Booker

t Jones and Memphis

Slim all lived, and where

Stax recorded some of

the world’s greatest soul

records. the story of

the early days recording

artists like Otis Redding,

Booker t & the MGs,

Wilson Pickett and isaac

hayes, the cultural

shifts in the USa and the

downfall of the label are

all told at Stax Museum.

AFTER DARK

Sure, spend a night

exploring the clubs and

bars of Beale Street, but

for a truly Memphis night

out, head to Wild Bill’s.

this is a proper juke joint,

so arrive late (definitely

not before 11pm), grab a

cold 40oz beer and get

into the house blues

band. it’s only open

Friday and Saturday

nights, but the doors

don't shut till 3am.

THAT ONE TIME OF YEAR

it’s May. all of it. the

Memphis in May

International Festival is

the umbrella event for the

Beale Street Music Festival,

international Week, World

championship Barbecue

cooking contest, 901Fest

and the Great american

River Run. that’s right –

food, music, culture, the

Mississippi River and more

are all celebrated for

31 days straight.

A statue of Memphis’s favourite son, Elvis Presley, at
Elvis Presley Plaza (above); barbecued pork ribs and
collard greens (top, left) are a staple on the menu at
F11PhO many eateries.

tO/ShUtteRS

tOck (el

ViS); JacOB

Bl

OUnt/ShUtteRS

tOck (B

aRBecUe)