wINTER ISSUE 2018 77EAT THIS
cajun and creole are the two
cuisines inextricably linked to the
city, and it’s more than their origins
that join them. the difference?
creole tends to be thought of
as ‘city’ food – sauces, French
techniques, beautifully set tables –
while cajun is food from the bayou.
For more than a hundred years,
Arnaud’s in the French Quarter has
been serving creole dishes in its
turn-of-the-century dining rooms.
For a more casual experience, head
to Mulate’s, billed as the original
cajun restaurant, for the fried
alligator platter, stuffed catfish
and red beans and rice.SEE THAT
catch the historic streetcar
along St Charles Avenue to
ogle the glorious mansions of
the Garden District. Jump off
at Lafayette Cemetery #1 and
explore the crumbling above-
ground tombs. if you want
guidance on where to wander,
head to the website of Free tours
by Foot, which has self-guided
tours available for download.DON’T MISS
new Orleans is a city with a rich
heritage, much of it a mystery for
out-of-towners. Backstreet Cultural
Museum has a huge collection of
artefacts, costumes, filmed records
and more documenting african-
american traditions. if you’ve ever
wondered about the Mardi Gras
indians, jazz funerals and Skull
and Bones gangs, it’s all explained
under one roof.AFTER DARK
While Bourbon Street is all about
frozen daiquiris, beads and
burlesque clubs, you can escape
the bachelor parties at Frenchmen
Street. live bands play jazz, blues,
zydeco and just about any other
form that gets the party started
at clubs like Maison. catch local
legend kermit Ruffins, who often
plays the Blue Nile on Friday nights.THAT ONE TIME OF YEAR
this is a city with a long tradition of
festivals, but for music lovers there
is none better than New Orleans
Jazz & Heritage Festival. Spend
the day dancing to local jazz outfits,
singing praise in the Gospel tent
or catching some of the biggest
acts in the world. held over two
weekends at the end of april, it’s
an amazing time to be in the city.New Orleans
LOUISIANA
You don’t need to be an expert on travel trends to see why
New Orleans consistently turns up on the world’s favourite
city lists. with its French and Spanish colonial heritage, and
the diverse backgrounds of people who settled there after,
it’s got a completely unique rhythm. Sure, the music, food
and cultural scenes and famous districts could enthrall
for months, but it’s the way the city embraces eccentricity
that separates it from the pack. Its residents – who include
Sandra Bullock, John Goodman and swathes of musicians
- dance to the beat of a different drummer, and their joie
de vivre is infectious. when they ask, “where y’at?” be
prepared for entertaining conversation.
A jazz band on the streets of New
Orleans; Big Chief Alfred Doucette,
a Mardi Gras Indian, marches in a
second line parade (below).