NationalGeographicTravellerAustraliaandNewZealandWinter2018

82 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER

Savannah

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Elegant, oozing charm and with a reputation as one of the

friendliest cities in the USA, at first glance Savannah is a typical

Southern city with broad tree-lined boulevards, antebellum

mansions and a vibrant riverfront. But make no mistake, it’s also

a bit of a wild child. John Berendt’s lyrical work of non-fiction,

Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, revealed Savannah’s

salacious side, and is required reading for any aspiring visitor.

EAT THIS

With a prime position near the

atlantic coast, Savannah boasts

some of the best seafood in the

South and is an ideal place to

search out the southern specialty,

shrimp and grits. Other seafood

specialties include the famous

crab stew, which has been a

menu feature at the Crystal Beer

Parlor since 1933. Vic’s on the

River, situated in a former cotton

warehouse on the riverfront,

serves pecan-crusted flounder and

a southern seafood bouillabaisse

that is chock-full of scallops,

mussels, shrimp and fish in

a smoky tomato broth.

SEE THAT

no trip to Savannah would be

complete without a leisurely stroll

through its beautiful 22 squares,

which comprise one of the largest

national historic Districts in the

United States. Picture stately oak

trees draped in Spanish moss,

tinkling fountains and elegant

architecture. even a short walk

through historic Savannah is like

stepping back in time.

DON’T MISS

in the heart of the historic district

is City Market, a Savannah fixture

for more than 250 years. Originally

the commercial hub of the city,

where locals shopped for groceries

and staple goods, it is now the ‘art

and soul’ of Savannah, featuring

galleries, boutiques, cafes,

restaurants and bars. in the evening

it transforms into a hub for live

music and nightlife. it’s one of the

few places in the USa that doesn’t

have open container laws, so grab a

to-go cup and stroll from bar to bar.

AFTER DARK

it’s known as the most haunted

city in the USa, and an evening

ghost tour will put you in touch

with Savannah’s spooky side.

the city has a long and macabre

history – it witnessed catastrophic

fires in 1796 and 1820 and a series

of deadly yellow fever outbreaks

throughout the nineteenth

century (in the 1876 epidemic,

more than a thousand people

died). John Berendt’s bestseller,

Midnight in the Garden of Good

and Evil, revealed its sinister side,

recounting the 1981 murder of

a local male prostitute by Jim

Williams, a respected Savannah

socialite and antiques dealer.

THAT ONE TIME OF YEAR

Skip the sweltering summer

temperatures; spring is the best

time to visit Savannah. From March

to May the city’s gardens are

coming into full bloom. it’s also a

great time to catch some favourite

local events, like the Savannah

Tour of Homes and Gardens,

which lets you peek behind the

curtain of some of the city’s most

beautiful private residences. March

also brings two favourite music

festivals, Savannah Stopover and

the Savannah Music Festival.

The fountain in Forsyth Park, built in
1858; gracious houses line the streets
in the city’s historic downtown (below).

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