steps. BY MICHAEL GIBSON.
WWW.SPORTINGSHOOTER.COM.AU | 49
not want to paint the tips. You
want to keep them white. With
Fallow you will paint a majority
of the antler and sand back at
the end.
- LET THE CONDYS CRYSTALS DRY
and repeat step 2 until the
desired colour is acheived. With
each coat I move further down
the antler to reduce sanding at
the end and have a transition of
colour to the tips. - NEXT YOU NEED TO SAND BACK
THE TIPS and pearling back to
resemble what a rubbed out deer
would have. This is the make
and break point to how realistic
your antler is going to look.
Don’t overdo the sanding you
can always take more off later
if required.
Take time and care here to
achieve professional results. Go
back to your reference shots and
ensure you are polishing up
areas that are realistic. - Once you have the desired
rubbed-out look. SEAL THE
ANTLER with the satin stain,
using a cloth to apply the stain.
Rub off any areas with a rag that
are applied too thick. This will
transform the antler from a flat
brown piece of bone to a realistic
fresh looking castie. - TO GIVE THE FINAL TOUCH, I rub
the antler on a suitable tree to get
some bark and additional
material in the pearling.
When you follow this process
you will end up with antlers
looking worthy of any dining
room table. They make great
additions to any man cave and
are talking points about that
mystery deer that you hope to
catch up with.
1
Comparing
your staining
by stages with the
antlers on an
actual kill or
photograph will
assist in achieving
realism.
2
Colouring
agents Gibbo
uses to rejuvenate
bleached cast
antlers.
3
A finished
antler on the
lef t looks like it
was cast
yesterday.
4
Initial staining
with Condy's
Chrystals (an
effective old tinea
cure) dries a deep
brown.
5
Close-up of
finished antler
after application
of Cabots Oil
Walnut Stain.
6
A rustic
tableau shows
off the finished
antler to nice
effect.
7
Here, the
stages of
refinishing the
antler from top to
bot tom, a very
simple and
satisfying
process.
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