T
he strip of soft sand I was travelling
on was more of a narrow ledge than
anything else, set slightly above the
jagged twisted spires and clumps of
sea-eroded limestone rock that threatened on
my immediate right, while the wave-tossed
sea just a little further out was downright
intimidating. To my left was a steep scrub-
covered ridge of sand that effectively barred any
deviation that way. Suddenly the sandy ledge
gave out completely and the Discovery lurched
sideways into a fettuccine-like porridge of sand
and weed.
I thumbed the gearshift paddle back to
second, the low range box growling in time with
the increased rumble from the V6 turbo engine.
The only real response though, as forward
motion came to a quick end, was a plume of
sand thrown through my open door window;
'Bugger', I thought as I hit the window 'up'
button.
I clambered out the partly opened door and
surveyed the situation; it wasn't a great place
for a recovery, but you can't really pick and
choose the spot where the situation goes belly
up; you just do the best you can. With a flurry of
activity, a couple of Maxtrax and a bit of digging,
I scrambled backwards onto more level territory
out of the way of jagged rocks, wind and waves
— and then breathed a big sigh of relief.
Leaving Esperance
We had left Esperance nearly a week previously
where you hit the sandy stuff right on the
outskirts of town and within a few minutes be
climbing Wylie Head. This dome of granite rears
upwards in an unbroken curve of unblemished
rock and for first-time devotees it can be a
daunting experience as you nudge your vehicle
up to the rock-face and then, in low range, drive
up the steep slope with only sky to be seen
through the windscreen.
From the lofty crest of granite we dropped
down onto the sand of Wylie Beach and travelled
the sweep of coastline all the way to Cape
Le Grande and delightful Lucky Bay before
wandering on to Rossiter Bay.
You can't travel this long section of coast
between here and Streaky Bay in South
Australia and not be aware of Edward J Eyre,
the first European to explore this coast in 1840.