case,however,forrelatedindustriessuchaswinemaking,bars
and butchery, where workforces are significantly evolving thanks
toaneweraoffemaleparticipationandcollaboration.
“Ihavenoticedanincreasingfemalepresenceinourmale-
dominatedindustry,” says Anthony Puharich, who believes the
dynamic women bring to his high-end butcheries is a “massive
benefit”toworkculture.“Wehavefemalebutchersinbothofour
retail businesses who are genuine star performers. There’s Luci
Kingston at Victor Churchill and Frenchy Bore at Vic’s Meat
Market, and 30 per cent of our production floor is female. This
isahugeleapforwardwhenyouconsiderthatasrecently as six
yearsagoitwasprettymuchanall-maleindustry.”
Sydney-based chef Matt Moran owns top-rated eateries around
the nation, is host of TV’sThe Great Australian Bake Off, and is the
co-owner of burgeoning hospitality empire Solotel Group, but
behind Matt is a team who make the whole production possible.
Among them is Laura Baratto, who has been a part of the Solotel
Group for the past 10 years and is executive chef at Opera Bar
in Sydney. “[Matt] has always been a mentor and huge support to
my career as a chef,” she says. “He has given me the opportunity
to work in several different kitchens at different levels.”
Itappearsthatit’snottheguysper se,buttheverynatureof
theindustry,whereantisocialconditionsandpoorwagesobstruct
awork-lifebalance.Thusanew,moresustainableapproachfor
menandwomenisneeded.“InAustralia,we’recomingtoa
realisation that we need a better balance in the kitchen,” says Neil
Perry.TheRockpoolDiningGroupchef-restaurateurbelievesthe
newhorizonisonewhereyoucanstillbecommittedtocooking
withoutgivingupyourlife.“Sustainabilityisaboutmorethanjust
the environment. If we can’t sustain our young people to stick in
the industry, we lose a precious resource. There is no longer any
place for European bootcamp-style kitchens.”
Andofthat‘BestFemaleChef’title...Perrysaysthatinthe21st
century, he would prefer that we weren’t calling out individuals
basedongender.Conversely,however,hecansenseagender
imbalanceinarestaurant,soacknowledgingthoseplacesthat
manageequilibriumisstillimportant.“Icantellwhenavenueis
male-dominated.Thedetailisn’tlookedafter.Womenaregreat
at nurturing, spotting small things and sweating the details” –
exactlythereasonhepushesforhisworkforcetobe50/50(which
it is). For Puharich, too, it’s an acute attention to detail that drew
himtofemalebutchers.“Inmyexperience–andImaywakeupto
a horse head in my bed tomorrow for saying this! – I’ve noticed
that the mentality of many male butchers is ‘close enough is good
enough’, whereas female butcherswon’tputanythingoutunless
it’s 100 per cent. This is a massive benefit for our business.”
The C-word has to come up in any discussion of gender equality
in the workforce, so who better to deal with the delicate topic of
children than father-of-two Colin Fassnidge? “For me, at 44, I’m
too old for kitchen life. It’s not an issue of gender, it’s an issue of
age. There comes a time when you need to use your head more
than your heart and step back from the pans.” Fassnidge says it’s
a natural progression for chefs to become restaurateurs, and there
needs to be structural change in the industry to allow for that
passage for both sexes. Analiese Gregory, who trained with Peter
Gilmore at Quay before taking the lead at Sydney’s Bar Brose and
most recently Franklin in Hobart, says she’d like the industry to find
a way to support women who want to have a family and keep on
cooking, “as opposed to feeling like we have to choose”.ForDanielle Alvarez, who helmsdelicious. 100NSW Restaurant
oftheYearFred’s,wemayhavecomealongwayfromMarco
PierreWhitethrowingknivesatapprenticesandAnthony
Bourdain’skitchenmachismoasglorifiedinKitchen Confidential
(anerahenowsayshelooksbackonwith“realremorse”),but
there remains plenty of room for improvements to kitchen
culture. The acceptance of four-day working weeks and flexible
hours is upping levels of “respect for people” in the business,
whichAlvarezsaysisabeaconforwomen.
As with the perfect recipe, balance is key, and the successful
kitchenoftodayembodiesthis.“Wearecompletelyonthesame
pageaboutfood,”saysAutomata’sClaytonWellsofheadchef
Sarah Knights. “She understands and appreciates balance and
simplicity.Ilovethatwecanbounceideasoffeachotherandit
inspires me to consider things in a different way.” Knights adds
that Wells is understanding and nurturing, but her gender is
irrelevant.“Iknowwhathewantsintermsofthefoodand how
he wants the kitchen run. It’s a great partnership.”
Lou Dowling, the 31-year-old bartender who recently opened
P&VWineandLiquorMerchantsinSydneywithdelicious.drinks
writer Mike Bennie, thanks a supportive work environment, where
collaboration of the sexes is key, for giving her the confidence
to open her own business in the male-heavy realm of booze:
“The support from the male community gives you courage and
opportunity.Breakingdownthepatriarchycomesfromwithin,
not from the matriarchy,” says Dowling, highlighting that the
future of the industry is very much a joint effort.“IF WE CAN’T SUSTAIN OUR
...WELOSE
A PRECIOUS RESOURCE.”#GIRLS
FIRE
ON
WEAREPASSIONATEABOUTSUPPORTINGTHEBESTFEMALEFOODINDUSTRYTALENTFROMAROUNDTHE
COUNTRY. GO TO DELICIOUS.COM.AU/GIRLSONFIRE FOR MORE INSPIRATIONAL STORIES CELEBRATING
WOMEN MAKING A NAME FOR THEMSELVES, AND JOIN THE DISCUSSION BY USING#GIRLSONFIRE.