delicious.com.au/food-files
Formore tips on buying and
storing fresh seafood.@huckstergram @anthuckstepBUYINGSardines are a delicate,
fine-boned fish. Look for examples
with a shimmering silver-blue skin free
from any tears or bruising. The fish
should have bright, clear, plump eyes.
Thefleshinsideshouldbeabrilliant
deep red with a translucent sheen.
STORINGHandle with extreme
care.Placefreshsardinesondrypaper
towelonadriptrayovericesealed
in an airtight container in the fridge.
Thaw frozen sardines at room
temperature and use immediately.
COOKINGPickled, pan-fried
and grilled (just don’t overcook).
CATCHING METHODPurse
seine nets, hoop nets.
SUBSTITUTIONSAnchovy,
blue mackerel, trevally.
ACCOMPANIMENTSCurrants,
capsicum, broccolini, capers, tomato,
garlic – but just as glorious on their
own with a splash of olive oil.
ILLUSTRATIONALICE CLEARYSARDINES
THERE ARE FEWmore
enjoyable experiences than
sittingbytheseaburning
your fingers on fresh-from-
the-fryerfish ‘n’ chips.
Flathead, flake, blue grenadier and
barramundi normally suit this treatment,
soIwasintriguedrecentlytoseesardines
featureasthefish‘n’chiplunchspecial
at Continental Deli in Sydney. It was, of
course, another wacky play on a theme that
we’vecometoexpectfromthecrewwho
broughtustheMar-tinnyandCan-Hatten
canned cocktails. Fish ‘n’ chips landed as
apaninifilledwithlargefilletsofcanned
sardinesandawodgeofpotatocrisps.
Once upon a time, Australians dismissed
sardines as a greasy, mushy fish packed in
cans with some kind of sauce, and although
thesedaysthey’recrackingstraightfrom
thecan,freshAustraliansardinesare
somethingspecialtosavour,saysJohn
Susman of seafood consultancy Fishtales.
“Growingup,Ionlyatesardineson
campingtrips,andthenonlyreluctantly,”
hesays.“Laterinlife,theybecameagreat
bait,andnowtheyareoneofmyfavourites
centreofplate–Iguessthetoast-to-hook-
to-plate cycle says it all!”
Fastgrowing and prolific breeders,
sardines are inexpensive, versatile andnow good enough to enjoy star billing, saysAnthony Huckstep.
a superhero of sustainability. You’ll find
these shiny little silver-striped torpedoes
fromNorthernNSWallthewayalongthe
southerncoasttoalmosthalfwayupthe
west coast, and Australians are catching
ontotheirhighhealthyfatcontent,clean
sesame nuttiness and delicate texture.
Theirfragilenatureandfinebone
structuremakehandlingaprimary
concern; Susman explains they’re
best bought whole and filleted at home
fortheidealculinaryexperience.
“Lookforreallyfreshwholesardines,”
hesays.“Runasharpparingknifearound
theheadandpull,removingtheguts.
Spiltthemdownthebelly,insertforefinger
and thumb under the backbone at the now
missingheadofthebutterfliedfilletand
runstraightbacktothetail,removing all
thefinebonesinoneeasymove.
“Thensimplydustinflour,panfryin
olive oil, apply a squeeze of lemon, some
cracked black pepper, serve on toast and
pouragenerousglugofvermentino for
the chef – absolutely delicious!”Searchdelicious.com.au for ‘polenta-
crusted sardines with salsa verde’.34 delicious.com.au