58uzz in fashion does not just happen. It can’t be planned or
manufactured, and it will often take you by surprise. Johanna
Ortiz’s eponymous label may seem like it has been an overnight
success – a constant sell-out, worn by celebrities to socialites (i.e. the
kind of women who buy their own dresses) – but the label has been
more than 15 years in the making.
It took a chance encounter: Lauren Santo Domingo, co-founder of
Moda Operandi, had spotted a guest wearing Ortiz’s label at a wedding.
And, as they say, the rest is fashion history. Ortiz presented the rest of
her collection to Santo Domingo, who promptly sent her to New York.
“It was all so fast, it was incredible – that was a big turning point,”
Ortiztells me over the phone from her studio in Cali, Colombia.
SantoDomingo, who also frequently wears Ortiz’s label, thinks back to
when she first saw the collection. “I immediately thought of her
husband, her children, and how her life was about to change – and
Iasked if she was ready.”
Ortiz sees this as one of her label’s major turning points, particularly
in bringing it to international audiences. ”I was so nervous. I didn’t
know anybody in fashion in New York and Lauren kept on saying:
‘You’re going to be fine!’” A few days later, Ortiz’s clothes were being
photographed for a cover shoot and soon were launched exclusively on
Moda Operandi. “It was a true fashion fairytale,” says Santo Domingo.
One may be unfamiliar with the name Johanna Ortiz, but her
distinctive silhouettes could not have passed you by. Extravagantly
ruffled skirts and dresses, chic prints and sultry off-shoulder necklines
have become the go-to get-up for the hostess, the party girl and everyone
else in between. They are one part salsa – Cali, Ortiz’s hometown, is
fittingly Colombia’s salsa capital – and one part gala gown. She designs
for herself, not an idealised concept of a woman, which is not necessarilythe norm for a female designer, imparting a sense of joyfulness and ease
in her designs. Feminine flounces with a sense of strength: ruffles may
be girlie, but they are stiffened with the right mix of cotton, or loosened
and stretched out in sensuous prints. She tries everything on “because
I want to understand how a woman would feel in one of my dresses or
tops”, she says. “I’m Latina, so I’m short and curvy – I’m not like the
models!” The ruffles or the necklines that gracefully drape around the
colourful seem plentiful to the eye, but there is a complex construction
that goes on to ensure that they flatter, with Ortiz paying close attention
to the fabric, volume and the ease of the garment.
For Santo Domingo, what set Ortiz apart was its authenticity. “Many
designers have an idea of what they think their brand should be, but it
doesn’t always resonate because it’s grounded in an idea, not a reality.
What struck me about Johanna’s collection was its perfect authenticity,”
she says. “Johanna wasn’t trying to do sexy sleek or an intellectual
Parisienne type, she was staying true to herself ... only she can capture
the sultry, sophisticated South American spirit.”
A proud Colombian (a T-shirt from her autumn/winter collection is
printed with the words “Colombia not Columbia”), she is excited that
her success has brought more attention to Colombian designers.
“Colombia is so diverse,” she points out, mentioning the rich heritage
and various ethnic groups that in turn have produced designers as
varied as Mercedes Salazar, known for her bold, brightly coloured
earrings, to Haider Ackermann.
Beyond the fanciful creations of Ortiz is her support of the local
Colombian community. Her pieces are all made in her country, where
she oversees a staff of 250 in her headquarters, two retail stores
andatelier. Additionally, Ortiz has founded Semillero, a foundation
that teaches high-end sewing techniques to local women fromB
As her signature ruffles, feminine prints and off-the-shoulder
eveningwear continue to take her to new heights, Colombian-based
designer Johanna Ortiz is determined to help her local community
along the way. By Zara Wong. Photographed by Candice Lake.Sitting pretty
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