Australian Stitches — September 2017

as these should remain straight so
that the pattern piece grainline is not
altered. See diagram 6.
If you need to add more than
1.5cm (5/8in) to each hipline seam,
you should use the ‘box-and-slide’
method to adjust your pattern. This
method allows you to add in a greater
amount of ease with less pattern
distortion. Simply box out the area
to be adjusted, slide out then blend
in the outer edges of the box to the
original seams of the pattern. More
than one box can be used to add
greater amounts of adjustment. See
diagrams 7 and 8.
The Swayback: There is a high
probability the hourglass fi gure will

have a swayback curve. This is repaired

by slashing into the centre-back

seam of the paper pattern below the

waistline curve, creating a pivot point

at the side seam. The upper pattern

section of the cut is moved downwards

by the required amount (generally

between 1cm and 2cm [3/8in and

3/4in]) to eliminate the ‘swayback

buckle’ without changing the waistline

shape. It is always important to

move the upper piece downwards to

avoid changing the grainline of the

bottom section of the garment. The

soft fullness at the waist or the ‘soft

square’ waist suitability camoufl ages

the presence of a swayback curve.

See diagram 9.

Diagram 4 – Adjusting the bustline by a maximum

of 1.5cm

Diagram 5 – Reducing the width of

the waist

Diagram 6 – Minor hipline

adjustment

Diagram 7 – Box-and-slide

technique for large adjustments

Diagram 8 – Multiple box-and-slide

adjustments for larger adjustments.

Diagram 9 – Swayback adjustment.

1 – 2cm (3/8 – 3/4in)

1 –

2cm

(3/8 –

3/4in

Hinge

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Tips and Techniques