Love Sewing — Issue 45 2017

PYJAMAS

A brief history of

Sit back and relax while we share with you the origins

of the essential pyjama

A BRIEF

HISTORY OF

H

ave you ever wondered why you gravitate

towards a certain style of sleepwear? Do you

prefer a silk nightdress, cotton stripe pyjama set

or perhaps like Marilyn Monroe you sleep in nothing

but Chanel No.5?

The word ‘pajamas’ originates from the

Hindustani word ‘epai-jaima’. These were

adaptations of harem pants popularised in Asia,

introduced to Europe in the 17th and 18th

centuries, and were mostly popular among

men. British colonists admired this casual

style and by the 1870s they had adopted

these roomy trousers as comfortable

loungewear and, later, as sleepwear.

India was to become the greatest exporter

of textiles the world had ever known,

with the trade reaching its height in the

18th and 19th centuries. There are many

other Indian words still in English usage,

which reflect this period of massive trade

in textiles. For example, calico, dungarees,

gingham, khaki, sash, seersucker and

shawl all originated during this time.

By definition, the term referred only to trousers.

It wasn't until the 20th century that pyjamas

became associated with a co-ordinated comfortable

ensemble and over the years the word has become

interchangeable with any kind of sleepwear. It took

quite a while for women to take notice and adopt

the fashion. Lingering Victorian purism meant it

was unseemly for a woman to reveal the shape of

her figure with her nightwear. But when Coco

Chanel introduced a line of attractive lounging and

beachwear pyjamas in the 1920s it began to persuade

women that pyjamas could be as flattering as a

traditional nightdress. A chic beach set on display

in the Victoria and Albert museum features a

wrap jacket and wide-legged palazzo pants in

pale pink cotton with black lapels, cuffs and

accents and attached front belt fastening with a

plastic buckle.

Nightwear began to reflect the dress

styles of the day. Out went the full-length

puritan white gown and in came the wide-

leg trousers, lace-trimmed tops and short

negligé that became a bedroom version

of a fashionable ‘flapper’ dress. Most

women's pyjamas were made of flowing

fabric such as silk, satin, chiffon, or rayon.

They featured loose, ankle-length trousers

that hung straight at the bottom or were

drawn tight around the ankle by a ribbon

or lacing. The waistlines of the trousers

had drawstrings. Tops were hip-length

jackets with varying sleeve lengths. Men now

almost exclusively wore pyjamas, in cotton twill,

calico and flannelette and decorated with pale

stripes – still the most popular style today. But

they also had quilted bed jackets and smoking jackets

in plush velvet and silk.

After World War II ended, production and

consumerism began to resurface and nightwear was

not only given a new life, but a new perspective.

Christian

Dior wanted

a woman to

look and feel

glamorous,

whether out

on the town

or retiring

to her bed

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