I
f you have prepared your skirt, it’s
now time to cut the lace. I am using
a beautiful guipure lace which has
no net or organza backing. It is made
up of a series of embroidered motifs
linked by bars known as brides. The
decorative edge of the lace runs along
the selvedge, so the fabric is cut out
with the selvedge (the decorative edge)
following the hemline. Guipure lace is
heavy and can be expensive so you want to
do this right first time and not waste any
precious fabric.MOUNTING THE LACEI placed the lace over the interlined and
prepared skirt sections. The lace needs to
be centred – this means the pattern needs
to balance each side of the centre front and
centre back. You may choose a dominant
motif to run down the centre line. Lay the
lace over the skirt panels, so the edge touches
the tack line for the hem at the centres.You will find as this is an A-line skirt
that has a slightly curved hem, the lace
overhangs the hem line at each end. DO
NOT cut it off; leave it longer. Pin the lace
to the skirt along the hemline and then
around the edges. Cut out the lace, but
leave the lace a little larger than the skirt
at the side seams.SHAPING THE LACE HEMIt may help you to fold the hem of the
skirt in place, but do not stitch in place
yet. Where the lace overhangs the hem,
snip through the brides that join each
shape to release the motifs. You can
reposition the motifs above the fold of
the hem before pining.Once you are happy with the lace
placement, unfold the hem and, using
small prick stitches, stitch around the
repositioned motifs using matching thread.
Stitch through to the skirt and then secure
along the whole of the hem edge of the lace
to the skirt.SECURING THE LACE
As the lace is heavy, we also need to secure
the lace at 10cm intervals working up from
the hem toward the waist, mark rows with
pins stopping before you get to the dart,
which has not been sewn yet. Using the
same small prick stitch work horizontal
rows of stitches across the lace, securing it
to the skirt.Fold back the lace and pin the dart in the
under layer. Machine together and press
toward CB or CF. You now have surplus
lace in the dart area. Working over a ham,
pin the lace to create a bubble where the
dart is, then cut through the brides and
once again mould the motifs over the shape
made by the dart for a seamless finish.
Repeat on all skirt panels.You have achieved quite a lot of couture
work there! These are specialist techniques
you can be proud to have learned.Next time we will cover how to hand-insert
the zip into the back of a lace skirt and join
the skirt panels together.Awarded an MBE for her services to
dressmaking, Alison is an industry
expert in classic couture and a
published author. Alison has her own
shop and line of patterns, and you can
also learn with Alison at one of her
exclusive workshops. Find
out more on her site
http://www.schoolofsewing.co.ukABOUT
ALISON SMITH MBE
Stay tuned for part 3!
Alison will be running a Couture
Lace skirt workshop next year at her
School of Sewing in Ashby-de-la-Zouch.
The new schedule of workshop dates
will be released on 21st October
at http://www.schoolofsewing.co.ukhttp://www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 89LS45 p88 Alisonv2.indd 89 19/09/2017 16:29