Love Sewing — Issue 45 2017

READ A PATTERN

Shows you how to...

PATTERN CUTTING LINE

Each line relates to di erent size for the

garment.  ere can be up to 10 sizes on a

pattern sheet so you can either follow a single

cutting line throughout or blend carefully

between sizes to achieve a better  t.

LAYOUT DIAGRAMS

 ese explain how to lay each piece onto

the fabric to ensure that all of the pieces will

 t on the fabric quantity suggested on the

envelope. Remember to follow along with

the correct view and size. Don’t forget to take

care with directional prints; you wouldn’t

want a  oral print top with all the  owers

upside down.

GRAINLINE

 e arrow on the pattern piece must be ‘on

grain’ with the threads of the fabric so that

it can hang, move and stretch correctly.

 e grainline must always be parallel to the

selvedge (the self- nished edges) of the fabric.

PLACE ON FOLD LINE

 is edge of the pattern piece is to be placed

on the fold of your fabric, making it easy to

cut out a mirror image at the same time.

DARTS

Parts of the fabric to be folded for shaping,

usually located at the bust, waist and neck.

NOTCHES

Make a tiny snip or chalk mark at each notch

location, within the seam allowance.  ese marks

are used to match pieces together before sewing.

LENGTHEN OR SHORTEN LINE

 is indicates exactly where to shorten or

lengthen the pattern piece or garment to

make changes for improved  t.

CIRCLE DOTS

 ese marks indicate construction details,

such as zipper position, pleating, or the end-

of-stitching line, as set out in the instructions.

Some pattern companies will use triangles or

squares in place of circle dots.

BUTTON & BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT

 e placement for a button is marked with an

X.  e placement for a buttonhole is marked

with an edged line.

TUCKS/PLEATS

Transfer any tuck lines marked on the pattern

pieces to the RS (right side) of the garment.

Follow directional arrows where given.

ABBREVIATIONS

SA SEAM ALLOWANCE

Every project you sew has a set seam allowance.

 is is the distance between where you sew

and the raw edge of the fabric – essentially an

invisible line around each pattern piece.  ese

lines are occasionally included on vintage

patterns. You must sew at the seam allowance

in order for the pieces to line up correctly.

Most commonly this is 1.5cm, but check your

instructions in case smaller allowances are being

used. Sewing machines have marks for the seam

allowance to the right side of the presser foot.

RS RIGHT SIDE AKA FABRIC FRONT

Instructions for placing right sides of fabric

together will be written as RST.

WS WRONG SIDE AKA FABRIC BACK

Instructions for fusing interfacing to the

wrong side of fabric will be written as WST.

Claire-Louise Hardie

LS41.P68 Pattern Adjustments.indd 68 30/05/2017 15:01