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PREPARE
YOUR
PATTERN
Your pattern pieces can
easily become crumpled
when stored in the envelope,
so it’s a good idea to give
them a press before
starting. This can be done
as individual pieces or
as one big sheet before
cutting out. Use a cool
setting on your iron, being
careful not to burn the paper.
Pressing the pattern will help
ensure your fabric pieces are
accurately cut.
wear with
EASE
‘Ease’ is the
amount required in
a garment so you
can move readily.
Consider the fit
you want – are you
looking for a loose
or close-fitted
garment?
READING A PATTERN
The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are an important element to
familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best
transferred onto your fabric pieces once they’re cut.
MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES
These lines indicate different dress sizes.
Cut accordingly to yours.
GRAINLINE
Align this mark with the grain of the fabric
as you position your pieces.
FOLD LINE
This mark indicates that the pattern piece
should be positioned along the fold of the
fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.
BUST/HIP INDICATORS
Located at the bust and hip points on the
pattern, where you can make any necessary
adjustments if yours don’t fall there.
LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE
This is an opportunity to customise the
pattern to your preferences.
MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS
These come in a range of sizes and are
used as points of reference on a pattern to
indicate where pieces should be placed.
TUCKS AND GATHERS
Match the lines together when stitching.
BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS
These indicate the position for placement
on a garment.
NOTCHES
Match two pieces of fabric together at
these points.
PLACING
YOUR PIECES
With the printed pattern pieces
facing up, place them onto the
fabric. Some pieces will need to
be placed on the fold of the fabric
(where it’s folded in half, giving you
a mirrored piece), which will be
indicated on the individual pattern
pieces themselves. Most patterns
offer stitchers a layout guide for
the placement, according to the
width of your fabric. This helps
you get the most from your fabric,
and avoids wastage. The tissue
paper patterns allow the motifs of
the fabric to show through, which
helps with pattern matching. It also
allows you to adjust the placement
if necessary.
Pattern pieces that are not
indicated to be placed on the fold
need to be placed on the material
with the grain arrow running
parallel to the selvedge. Measure
the distance from one end of the
arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the
other side of the arrow, and move
the pattern piece slightly until both
measurements are the same. Once
you’re happy with the placement of
your pattern pieces, carefully pin
to secure.
UNDERSTAND
YOUR FABRIC
Getting to grips with your fabric is a
fundamental part of sewing. Before
you start, familiarise yourself with:
WARP These are the yarns that run the length
of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns
and less likely to stretch.
WEFT These run over and under the
warp threads across the fabric from selvedge
to selvedge.
BIAS The bias grain is the diagonal line that
runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric.
Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished
piece that will follow the contours of the body.
SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that
run parallel to the weft grain is the selvedge.
““If you’re taking on a project with lots of pattern pieces, or one
that you’ll dip in and out of, use sticky labels to name each
pattern piece so you can instantly see which is which – you
don’t want to get front and back trouser pieces mixed up!”
BECKY OWEN, THE SEWING CAFE
SELVEDGES
FOLD
BIAS
WARP
WEFT
CONSIDER
YOUR FABRIC
Before you begin to cut out
pattern pieces, it’s a good idea
to wash your fabrics first.
This means that you will
know how the fabric reacts
and also reduces the chance
of shrinkage in your completed
garment. Once the fabric
has been washed, press the
material with an iron using
a suitable heat setting. Lay
out your fabric on a large
surface, ready to begin
pinning and cutting.