GQ_Australia-December_2017

E

ating omakase ( Japanese chef’s selection) is one of

the most marvelous moments one could experience –

the respect and allure of the craft and the produce can

deliver an almost Zen-like enlightenment. Especially

if you catch a master at the peak of their game.

Welcome to Kisumé. The latest feast to join

the Lucas Group (Chin Chin, Kong, Baby, Hawker Hall) is more

sophisticated than its popular siblings. Sleek and minimalist, it holds

to the group’s trademark soiree style that relies on a room’s energy

to add to a great night out.

Timber flooring, soft leather banquettes, dark greys and

provocative photography provide the canvas to the colourful

culinary brushstrokes of this three-level Flinders Lane eatery.

The basement houses a hot kitchen where Japanese effusion reigns

• think miso-lime beef tartare and flathead with wasabi yoghurt.
  On the ground floor sushi chefs wield knives like sashimi samurais,
  while up top, the so-called Kiro Kisumé sees a Chablis Bar and
  private dining room as well as The Table – a private omakase-style
  eating experience with Chef Moon and 11 of your buddies.
  While ex-Eleven Madison Park sommelier Jonathan Ross helps
  navigate the extensive sake and wine list, here it’s about strapping
  in to watch Moon shine. Kingfish belly is constructed like lattice.
  Smoked bonito gets a yuzu kick. Garfish is sliced and braided.
  The ribbed pleasure of alfonsino is a textural journey.
  Then tuna appears three ways – the deep red of akami (middle
  back), the pale pink otoro (fatty belly) and reddish pink chutoro
  (between akami and otoro). It’s followed by creamy scampi, sweetened
  by sea urchin roe and the eye-twitching twang of Japanese plum
  adding an exclamation to King George whiting. This Australian spin
  on the best of Japan may well be the best restaurant to open this year.
  175 Flinders Lane, Melbourne; kisume.com.au

Kisumé, VIC

THE

REVIEW

4/5

FROM TOP
King crab tofu with
shiitake mushroom
and warm dashi
broth; miso-lime
beef tartare;
deluxe feature
box; selection of
Kisumé cocktails.

FOR MORE FROM THE

GQ DIRECTORY, HEAD

TO GQ.COM.AU

The best new

drinking and drinking and

dining options.dining options.

BrisbaneBrisbane

HUMHUMMMINGBIRD BAR INGBIRD BAR

AND RESTAURANTAND RESTAURANT

A dimA dimly lit roomly lit room with with

polished concrete floors, polished concrete floors,

dark wood tables and big dark wood tables and big

bar sets the scene for the bar sets the scene for the

mmodern Australian fare odern Australian fare

flying out of the kitchen. flying out of the kitchen.

Just mJust make sure you ake sure you

start with a cocktail. start with a cocktail.

1/151 Baroona Rd; 1/151 Baroona Rd;

humhummmingbirdbar.comingbirdbar.com.au.au

PerthPerth

GAZETTEGAZETTE

After a tepid reception to After a tepid reception to

their fine-dining offering, their fine-dining offering,

Print Hall has remPrint Hall has removed oved

the tablecloths and given the tablecloths and given

the dining area a casual the dining area a casual

Italian mItalian makeover. Go for akeover. Go for

tiger prawns with salsa tiger prawns with salsa

verde or tortellini stuffed verde or tortellini stuffed

with Wwith WA bugs. A bugs. 125 St 125 St

Georges Terrace; Georges Terrace;

printhall.comprinthall.com.au.au

MelbourneMelbourne

THE MTHE MAYFAIRAYFAIR

A ’30s New York-style A ’30s New York-style

supper club in the heart supper club in the heart

of Mof Melbourne? Damelbourne? Damn n

straight. Step back in timstraight. Step back in time e

into a candle-lit cocktail into a candle-lit cocktail

bar and restaurant for bar and restaurant for

cool jazz tunes, a stellar cool jazz tunes, a stellar

whisky selection and a whisky selection and a

classic French-mclassic French-meets-eets-

contemcontemporary-Australian porary-Australian

mmenu. enu. 45 Collins St; 45 Collins St;

mmayfairrestaurant.comayfairrestaurant.com.au.au

AdelaideAdelaide

BISTRO BLACKWBISTRO BLACKWOODOOD

Rock star chef Jock Rock star chef Jock

Zonfrillo (the upstairs Zonfrillo (the upstairs

Orana) has turned the Orana) has turned the

street-level eatery into street-level eatery into

a bistro showcasing a bistro showcasing

Australia’s unique Australia’s unique

ingredients. Think Goowla ingredients. Think Goowla

pippies with beach pippies with beach

succulents or a 450g succulents or a 450g

rib-eye with mrib-eye with mushroomushrooms s

and potatoes. and potatoes. 285 Rundle 285 Rundle

St; bistroblackwood.comSt; bistroblackwood.com..

WORDS: ANTHONY HUCKSTEP.