S
poiler alert: you won’t find any pasta in this
feature. That might come as a shock to fans of
immensely popular pasta bar Tipo 00, but Osteria
Ilaria, which opened to fevered interest next door
to its sibling in Melbourne’s CBD earlier this year, is
almost (but not quite) a pasta-free zone. Of course, there’s
still plenty to like, but for a team who built their success
on rolling out pasta dough, it’s a surprise move.
“What we wanted to do here was a wine-driven
modern Italian restaurant,” says chef and co-owner
Andreas Papadakis. “Sort of like the new-style osterias
you’d find in Milan where tradition is mixed with modern
technique and varied ingredients and influences.”
The chef admits it was tricky (and slightly stressful)
trying to ensure the two restaurants were separate entities
without losing the essence of Tipo’s success.
“The weight of expectation was pretty intense because
we weren’t going to replicate Tipo,” he says. “But we did
want to stay with the same ethic – a place where we’d go,
serving food we want to eat that’s recognisably Italian.
The most obvious difference is that there’s less emphasis
on pasta at Ilaria. And the dishes are perhaps more elegant
and modern, and we like to use different ingredients.
If they’re using veal at Tipo, we might go with lamb.”
The recipes here provide a good snapshot of how
Osteria Ilaria rolls. The octopus with ’nduja dressing
already has something of a cult following, and others
are a preview of what Papadakis will be dishing up on
Ilaria’s first spring menu.
“We haven’t served the mascarpone dish, but thought
that it was perfect with the great berries you can get at
this time of year, and though we’ve done zucchini flowers
before, the almond purée is something that we’ll also be
using on our spring menu,” says Papadakis.
The seafood and vegetable emphasis here is, according
to Papadakis, “a reflection of the way I like to eat mostly”.
“It’s not that we don’t serve meat,” he says. “But with
spring I like the menus to be lighter, fresher and simpler. It’s
the way I eat when I go to Italy and it’s the way I like to feed
people when they come to Ilaria.” Osteria Ilaria, 367 Little
Bourke St, Melbourne, Vic (03) 9642 2287, osteriailaria.com1 Blanch fennel and asparagus
until not quite tender but just
softened (1-2 minute). Drain well
and cool.
2 Blanch broad beans until
tender (1-2 minutes), then drain
and refresh in iced water, drain
again and peel.
3 Heat a char-grill pan
or barbecue to high heat.
Brush fennel with a little oil
and grill until lightly charred
(30-45 seconds each side).
4 For dressing, whisk vinegar,
mustard, and honey in a bowl
to combine. While whisking,
gradually add olive oil in a thin
stream until thick and emulsified.
5 Dress fennel, asparagus
and broad beans generously,
season to taste and transfer
to a platter. Top with fennel
fronds and serve.
Wine suggestion 2016 Tenuta
Terre Nere “Etna Bianco”, Sicily.
This wine, from the northern
slopes of Mount Etna, is a blend
of local varieties, the dominant
grape being carricante. It’s a
pure expression of terroir, with
white flowers, scorched lemon,
high acid and a salty-savoury
palate reminiscent of
a great Chablis.2 fennel bulbs, trimmed,
sliced lengthways (about
4mm thick), fronds reserved
3 bunches asparagus,
ends trimmed
120 gm podded broad beans
(from about 500gm
unpodded)
Olive oil, for brushing
HONEY-MUSTARD DRESSING
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
3 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp honey
150 ml olive oilGrilled fennel and asparagus salad
SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 5 MINS“Fennel’s flavour changes dramatically as you grill it, and
it gives it more depth,” says Andreas Papadakis. “The
honey dressing marries all the ingredients really well and
makes this salad a great side dish for a roast. You can
add or substitute fresh peas instead of the broad beans.”
Pictured page 110.ALL PROPS RESTAURANT’S OWN124 GOURMET TRAVELLER