town selling iron tools for special shapes – but things
have changed,” Lisetta tells me as she rolls sagne
’ncannulate, twisted pasta ribbons.
L’Orecchietta is packed by early evening. Lisetta is
busy in the shop, but her children, Simona and Mino,
join us at our patio table beneath a magnolia tree for
one of the region’s signature dish, pezzetti di cavallo,
cubes of lean horsemeat simmered in tomato sauce.
Around us appear slices of airy focaccia studded with
cherry tomatoes, and plates of orecchiette dressed in
passata and dusted with ricotta salata. The wine list
is impressive for such a casual venue, but our BYO
Supersanum “Sinergico” rosato is the first our hosts
have tasted. Wait, I urge, and race down to the car to
fetch the cotognata. With the quince jelly, a wedge
of pecorino and glasses of negroamaro, we toast old
friendship and southern hospitality. ●
Getting there
Lecce is about half an hour’s drive
south of Brindisi Airport, which is
served by regular flights from Milan,
Rome, Bologna, Barcelona, London
and Paris. Direct trains from Rome to
Lecce take about five and half hours.Stay
Casa dei Mercanti The nine
self-catering suites in a Fascist-era
building on Lecce’s largest square
are ideal for those who want to
make the most of Salento’s produce
markets. Piazza Sant’Oronzo 44,
Lecce, +39 0832 279819,
casadeimercantisuites.it
Don Totu Near the coastal towns of
Castro and Santa Cesarea Terme,
this six-room B&B features gardens,
a pool, gym, library and Turkish
bath. Via Crocefisso 10, San Cassiano,
+39 0836 992374, dontotu.it
La Fiermontina This “urban resort”
of 16 rooms occupies a refurbished
17th-century villa at the edge of
Lecce’s historic centre. Piazzetta
de Summa Scipione 4, Lecce,
+39 0832 302481, lafiermontina.com
Masseria Trapanà On the outskirts
of Lecce, this rural retreat occupies
a former fortified farmhouse. Strada
Provinciale 236, Surbo-Casalabate,
+39 0832 1832101, trapana.comEat
Farmacia dei Sani The innovative
dishes at this restaurant deep in
Salento’s interior are inspired by
regional flavours and elevated using
modern techniques. Piazza del
Popolo 14, Ruffano, +39 339 833 2514
La Succursale This busy pizzeria
serves thick-rimmed pizze with
craft beer, as well as salads,
legume dishes and cheese plates.
Viale dell’Università 15, Lecce,
+39 391 497 7749
Le Macàre This trattoria serves
Salentino specialities such as
eggplant stuffed with mozzarella
and ragù misto, pork and beef
simmered overnight in puréed
tomatoes. Via Mariana Albina 140,
Alezio, +39 0833 282192, lemacare.itTrip
notes L’Orecchietta This pasta shop and
trattoria in Guagnano sells fresh
pasta made in local shapes and
traditional dishes to take away
or dine in. Via Vittorio Veneto 49,
Guagnano, +39 334 722 0264,
lorecchietta.com
Lu Pescatore This family-run
trattoria specialises in fish caught
in the nearby nature reserve. Corso
Annibale 1, Torre San Giovanni di
Ugento, +39 0833 937018
Rua de Li Travaj Expect earthy
regional specialties such as pittule
(fried dough fritters) and ceci e tria
(chickpeas with boiled and fried
pasta). Via Felice Cavallotti 44, Patù,
+39 349 058 4531Drink
Quanto Basta This craft cocktail bar
is Salento’s first foray into the world
of global spirits, combining foreign
and domestic flavours. Via Marco
Basseo 29, Lecce, +39 347 008 3176
Cubi A new craft cocktail bar from
the team behind Quanto Basta,
mixing classic cocktails in southern
Salento. Via S. Giuseppe 12, Maglie
facebook.com/CubiMaglie
Alvino Its location in Lecce’s
busiest square makes this café
a point of reference for locals,
for pastries, coffee and aperitivi.
Piazza Sant’Oronzo 30, Lecce,
+39 0832 246748, catamo.it
Bar Cotognata Leccese Renowned
for sweet specialties and cotognata,
Lecce’s quince paste. Viale Marconi
51 Lecce, +39 0832 302800,
cotognataleccese.com
Pasticceria Ascalone Founded in
1740, this institution in its 10th
generation of family ownership
attracts pasticciotti lovers from
across Salento. Via Vittorio Emanuele
17, Galatina, +39 0836 566009
Pasticceria Nobile Pasticciotti are
served hot out of the oven at this
café near the sea in San Cataldo.
Via Marco Polo 9, San Cataldo,
+39 0832 650595
Caffè Parisi Come for its large
aperitivo snack spread and stay
for its prime position in Nardò’s
elegant historic centre. Piazza
Antonio Salandra 38, Nardò,
+39 0833 182 3223GOURMET TRAVELLER 157