Australian_Gourmet_Traveller_2017

(Jacob Rumans) #1

Eat out


Two forthcoming Carlton ventures are quickening pulses: the
reopening later this year of the refurbished and expanded
King & Godfree deli and wine store, and a new Sicilian
100-seater called Mr Pietro by Kaprica’s Pietro Barbagallo.

The spiritual home of Melbourne’s Italian


community is still one of the best places in the


country to shop for food and drink coffee like


an Italian, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.


BAKER
Baker D Chirico Undulating joinery
makes this one of the ’hood’s most
beautiful shops, but there’s beauty,
too, in Daniel Chirico’s range of
sourdough bread (from wholemeal to
fruit loaf), custard-filled bomboloni
and queue-attracting seasonal fare
such as panettone. 178 Faraday St,
Carlton, Vic, (03) 9349 3445,
bakerdchirico.com.au

BUTCHER
Donati’s Fine Meats The strains of
Italian opera, owner Leo Donati’s
bracingly frank manner and some of
the finest rabbit, veal, pork and pork
products in Melbourne make this
butcher shop, here since the 1960s,
a Carlton landmark. 402 Lygon St,
Carlton, Vic, (03) 9347 4948

COFFEE
Brunetti There are other artisanal
coffee makers in Carlton (Faraday
Street’s Market Lane Coffee, for
example), but nothing beats the
marble-and-brass Roman style of
Brunetti. The coffee’s solid – kind
of like you’d find in Italy – the
experience unforgettable.
380 Lygon St, Carlton, Vic,
(03) 9347 2801, brunetti.com.au

GELATO
Pidapipò Owner and gelato-maker
Lisa Valmorbida went to Carpigiani
Gelato University in Bologna and
returned with a purist approach


  • nothing frozen, whole milk and
    only fresh fruit for flavouring. The
    result is gorgeously textured gelato
    scooped from lidded pozzetti. The
    pistachio is remarkable and there’s
    also a Nutella fountain. Generous
    servings, too. 299 Lygon St, Carlton,
    Vic, (03) 9347 4596, pidapipo.com.au


PIZZA
Kaprica Pietro Barbagallo makes
Sicilian-style pizza with care and
skill in this rustic former garage.
There’s pasta, too, and Americanos,
but the pizze are non-negotiable,
from simple Margheritas to fancier
pies such as salmone with
mascarpone and roe. 19 Lincoln
Sq, Carlton, Vic, (03) 9347 1138 ●

Carlton


AN EATING GUIDE TO

DELI
DOC Delicatessen Any business with
a glass-walled, climate-controlled room for
keeping its prosciutto and other salumi in
tip-top condition and that treats its equally
impressive array of cheese – from aged
parmesan to fresh mozzarella – with similar
care is a friend of ours. 330 Lygon St,
Carlton, (03) 9347 8482, docgroup.net

62 GOURMET TRAVELLER

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES GEER
Free download pdf