176 Port anD the Douro
up energy in foliage rather than fruit set. Taylor recorded 40cm shoot growth over one
weekend in early May. Hot, dry weather arrived in July and continued through August into
early September. Yields were some of the lowest on record and by the middle of the month
there was every prospect of a small but exceptional harvest.
Picking began in the Douro Superior on 14 September and by 24^ September the
harvest was underway in most of the region. Unfortunately this coincided with more
unsettled weather and periodic heavy showers fell, diluting sugar levels. There were
exceptions. Quinta do Noval stopped picking in September and resumed again in clear
weather at the beginning of October, a strategy which clearly proved itself when you taste
their fine, structured Silval. Likewise, Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha only began picking
on 1 October, by which time sugar readings were back up to 13 degrees Baumé. Although
the grapes generally arrived cool and there was very little need for temperature control, a
potentially ‘great’ vintage became merely ‘good’ in terms of quality. Nonetheless a number
of single quintas made some fine, balanced wines for the medium to long term. Dow’s
Senhora da Ribeira, picked before the rain, is particularly impressive with multiple layers
of fruit and a solid, ripe tannic backbone. Drink now to 2020 plus. Taylor’s Quinta de
Terra Feita 1998 was sadly wiped out by the landslide that demolished part of the lodge
in January 2001 (see page 1).
Pick of the Vintage: Dow’s Quinta Senhora da Ribeira; Fonseca Guimaraens;
Quinta do Vesúvio; Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos; Quinta do Noval, Silval; Smith
Woodhouse, Madelena.
1997 **** very good, well-structured wines, widely declared
The winter of 1996/97 was short and sharp with snow settling at low altitudes along the
River Douro in January. The weather suddenly changed in February when temperatures
rose 4°C above average for the time of year leading to an early bud burst. Some vineyards
were then hit by frost which reduced overall yields. Wet weather returned in April and May
and temperatures remained abnormally cool through to August, allowing for a slow but
steady development of the grapes. Hot weather in late August/early September saved the
day, bringing about an even final ripening. By the time picking began around 20 September,
Tinta Barroca registered a healthy 14 degrees Baumé with Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional
only marginally behind. Touriga Franca (or Francesa as it was then known) also ripened
evenly. This was undoubtedly helped by low yields (down by up to 40 per cent on 1996)
with younger varietal plantings producing around 1 kilo per vine and older mixed plantings
around 0.4 kilos (the equivalent of one bottle for every four vines). Apart from the occasional
isolated thunderstorm, the harvest continued under clear skies. Temperatures were high at
the start of harvest but cooled down significantly, and the later lagares took plenty of work
producing aromatic wines with impressive purple-blue colours.
At the outset, the wines were by no means as easy to assess as the super-ripe, opulent
1994s but the best 1997s are beautifully balanced, combining fine, firm sinewy tannins
with structure and freshness. Nearly all the leading shippers declared in the spring of