186 Port anD the Douro
1976 ** soft, sweet and early maturing
The winter of 1975/76 was extremely dry. A hot, dry summer followed and wells dried
up all over the Douro. Much-needed rain fell in late August and September was cool with
light rain. The harvest began in the Cima Corgo on 23 September and grapes were free
from disease. Sugar readings were high and cool temperatures meant that fermentations
were slow, but it rained throughout vintage causing an outbreak of rot, mainly in the
Baixo Corgo. Michael Symington wrote at the end of vintage that ‘dark wines were
produced but lacking “freshness” due to the exceptionally dry year.’ With one or two
exceptions, most of the wines are soft, intensely sweet and early maturing. The exception
is Fonseca Guimaraens: a wonderfully deep, dark opulent vintage Port that overshadows
all the 1975s, and many of the 1977s as well.
Pick of the Vintage: Fonseca Guimaraens.
1975 ** soft, early maturing vintage; drink up
Christened the Verão Quente (hot summer) both because of the heat and the political
temperature at the time, 1975 has always been a controversial declaration. There is
absolutely no truth in the tale that the wines were only declared due to the revolution
and the threatened nationalisation of the Port industry, because by the time the shippers
chose to declare (in the spring of 1977) Portugal had settled down as a mild-mannered but
economically ruined democracy. The growing season followed a wet winter but the hot,
dry summer delayed ripening. The vintage began in early October by which time heavy
September rain was beginning to dilute sugar levels. Slow fermentations produced wines
with considerable colour but seemingly without sufficient structure to make lasting wines.
Reading vintage reports from the time, the majority of shippers talked themselves into a
declaration. Even Quinta do Noval Nacional is disappointing. In general, the 1975s are
now soft and rather hollow but have been quite attractive to drink while waiting for the
1970s, 1966s and 1963s to mature. Cálem, Delaforce, Dow and Graham are still drinking
well but should not be kept for anything other than academic interest. Drink soon.
1974 *
The year of the revolution. After a winter of average rainfall, the spring and summer were
perfect for the development of the vines. Following a hot July and fine August, September
was cool but no further rain fell. Picking began around 26 September and the large crop
produced rather soft, dilute wines. Good ‘traditional’ LBVs from Smith Woodhouse and
Warre and an SQVP from Taylor’s Vargellas. Drink up.
1973
Unusually heavy demand for wines caused prices to rise by as much as 150 per cent on the
previous year. Early September was wet and cold, and when picking began under clear skies
around 20 September, sugar levels were surprisingly low and the initial feeling was that the