vintage Port 193wines ‘took fair work but were inclined to reach very high temperatures towards the end of
fermentation’. Everyone except Cockburn declared. Due to shipping restrictions, the wines
were mostly bottled in Oporto (sometimes in brown sherry bottles due to lack of glass) and
have developed very well indeed. Some are starting to look rather frayed (Ferreira, Quinta
do Noval, Sandeman) but Croft, Dow Niepoort and Taylor are bolt upright, reflecting the
depth and concentration of this small but exceptional vintage. One of my favourites is Croft
(tasted twice in 2007), which is scintillating: wonderfully fresh and pure with powerful
tannins to back up the sweet berry-fruit. Drink now or keep forever! Taylor (last tasted in
2007) is, if anything, more powerful with voluptuous fruit supported by a massive tannic
superstructure. It combined power and elegance. The best 1945s will continue to evolve
well through the first half of the century and will still be alive to celebrate their centenary.
Pick of the Vintage: Croft; Dow; Taylor.
1942 **** wartime vintage; wines now rare
Declared by some and bottled in Gaia, but very little was shipped due to the restrictions
in force at the time. A dry winter was followed by a cold and wet spring. Flowering was
late and the crop was small. Rain in August helped to swell the grapes. Fermentations took
some work. I have only tasted two wines: Croft is still fresh, beautifully poised and refined;
Niepoort has sweetness and richness that can only be described as exotic, supported by
tough, foursquare tannins, and is still hugely impressive.
1935 ***** classic wines with great finesse, some with real staying power
A split vintage: some shippers went for 1934 while others went with 1935. There is little
to choose between them as both years produced some fantastic wines that are still drinking
very well. 1935 was the smaller of the two harvests and the weather was cool and fine during
vintage. The grapes were not particularly rich in sugar but they produced wines with great
finesse and considerable staying power, making up in balance and harmony for what they
lack in structure. Taylor (last tasted in 2007) does not lack structure: it is still introverted on
the nose but hugely powerful with ripe broad tannins lingering onto a sweet finish. Cálem
and Ramos Pinto are light, delicate, crisp and still alive. Croft and Delaforce have elegance,
poise and retain some depth. Cockburn (last tasted in 2008) is glorious: ripe, retaining dark
chocolate concentration and beautifully poised. Sandeman, when I tasted it in 2011, was
still youthful and tight-knit, amazingly with more still to give.
Pick of the Vintage: Cockburn; Sandeman; Taylor.
1934 **** firm, well-structured wines, now showing their age
A dry winter was followed by a wet spring. Flowering and fruit set were late. July was hot
and dry but September rain helped to swell the grapes. John Symington wrote: ‘The vintage
started on September 24th. Except for one day of rain it has been perfect vintage weather
and fairly warm most days. The grapes have all come in fresh and very healthy. It should