7. Douro wines
Claret For Boys, Port For Men
Alongside Port, unfortified wines from the Douro used to be considered something of a
poor relation. This was reflected in the lexicon. Unsure of how to make the distinction,
unfortified wines were called consumo, with all due reverence reserved for the fortified big
brother. The task was made easier after 1979 when unfortified wines were awarded their
own DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada): Douro. Despite this, Douro wines are still
referred to, often misleadingly, as ‘light wines’ (to distinguish them from fortified wines) or
table wines (vinho de mesa).
Unfortified wines are not new to the Douro and pre-date Port. Until the late
eighteenth century, most of the wine produced in the region was fermented dry and
occasionally bolstered with a small amount of fortifying spirit to lend stability to the
wines for shipment abroad. The evolution of Port into a sweet fortified wine is covered in
Chapter 1, but as late as the mid-nineteenth century the eclectic Joseph James Forrester
continued to advocate a return to dry, unfortified red wine considering Port to be
‘adulterated’ by the addition of aguardente. Writing in the 1870s Henry Vizetelly refers
to ‘natural Port’ and ‘Alto Douro wine made without adventurous spirit’ as something of
a novelty. He observes:
‘Having consumed all its natural sugar by means of its more perfect fermentation, it has
none of the rich fruity flavour of the younger vintage wines, nor the refined liqueur-like
character of the older growths to which Port-drinkers have been accustomed, and they
naturally refuse to accept it as a substitute for their favourite beverage. We have tasted at
different times numerous wines of the above description made from the best varieties of
grapes, and on the manufacture of which unusual care and attention had been bestowed.
Undoubtedly they were all wines of some character; still they were not to be compared,
either as regards flavour or bouquet, with the highest growths of the Medoc or the Cote