Port and the Douro (Infinite Ideas Classic Wine)

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84 Port anD the Douro


the vinha velha at Cockburn’s Quinta dos Canais. It is probably named after Quinta de
Barca near Freixo de Espada à Cinta. According to the IVV’s official list, there are 373
hectares of Barca in Portugal. This must nearly all be in the Douro, for I have not come
across Barca in anywhere else in the country.


tinta Francisca


Not to be confused with Touriga Franca (formerly Francesa, q.v.), Tinta Francisca is thought
to be true to its name, having originated in Burgundy as Pinot Noir. There are two stories
as to its genesis, neither of which can be proved. One asserts that it was brought to Portugal
by Henry of Burgundy in the eleventh century (see page 2), the other that it was sent from
Burgundy for Robert Archibald, the founder of Quinta do Roriz. It survives today in old
mixed vineyards but on its own produces unbalanced musts with low acidity and high levels
of sugar.


donzelinho tinto


There are three officially recognised Donzelinhos: branco (white), roxo (purple) and tinto
(pink). Donzelinho Tinto is found in old interplanted vineyards in the Douro where it resists
oidium. A number of shippers are experimenting with this grape, so far with mixed results.


touriga Femea


I have only come across this grape variety on two occasions (two rows at Quinta do Mosteiró
and a small experimental plot at Ferreira’s Quinta do Seixo) where the grower called it by the
synonym Touriga Brasileira, and described it to me as being very similar to Touriga Franca
but more aromatic.


alicante Bouschet


This teinturier (red-fleshed) grape has a historical presence in the Douro but has only
recently been officially authorised. It was planted by British shippers to lend colour to wines
in place of the illegal use of baga (elderberry). It tends to be a very productive variety.
Alicante Bouschet is more widely planted in the Alentejo where it is an important variety
for blending.


syrah


There are pockets of Syrah all over the Douro which, until recently, few have admitted
to – it is a variety that was neither recommended nor approved by the IVDP. Quinta do
Noval have an eight-hectare plot in the Roncão valley and there is more at Quinta da
Romaneira and upstream in the Tua valley. It already looks as though Syrah is well suited
to the Douro. Others are also quietly experimenting with Syrah with a view to using it for
unfortified wine, and it is now sanctioned for Vinho Regional Terras Durienses status rather
than Douro DOC.


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