The Best of Fine Cooking — Real Italian 2017

2 large heads escarole (1 lb. each)

2 medium cloves garlic, peeled

Kosher salt

3 Tbs. plus ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

6 oz. country-style bread, preferably
day-old, crusts removed, torn into rustic
bite-size pieces (about 4 cups)

4 anchovy fillets, rinsed

2 Tbs. red-wine vinegar; more as needed

½ cup black olives, such as niçoise, rinsed
well, pitted, and coarsely chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

To prep the escarole, remove the green outer

leaves and discard or reserve for another use.

Trim off any dark green tips and cut off the

root end. Then cut or tear the leaves into bite-

size pieces (you should have about 12 cups).

Position a rack in the center of the oven

and heat the oven to 350°F.

Put the garlic in a mortar, add a pinch of

salt, and pound to a paste with a pestle. Or

mince and then mash to a paste with the side

of a chef’s knife. In a small bowl, combine half

of the garlic with 3 Tbs. of the olive oil.

Put the bread on a rimmed baking sheet

and toss with the garlic oil to coat evenly.

Spread the bread out, season lightly with salt,

and bake until crisp and light golden brown

outside and tender inside, about 10 minutes.

Set aside to cool on the baking sheet.

Pound or mince the anchovies to a paste.

In a small bowl, combine the anchovy paste

with the remaining garlic paste and the

vinegar. let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Whisk

in the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil and stir in

the olives. Taste with a leaf of escarole and

season the vinaigrette with more vinegar or

salt if necessary.

escarole salad with olives and garlic croutons

With its garlicky greens, crunchy croutons, and salty anchovies, this salad is

reminiscent of a classic Caesar salad but without the creaminess. Long, thin

shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano would make a delicious

addition. Serves 6

Put the escarole in a large bowl and season

with salt and pepper. Gently toss the salad

with just enough vinaigrette to lightly coat the

greens. Taste and add more salt or vinaigrette

if necessary. Add the croutons and toss

again. Gently transfer the salad to a platter or

individual serving plates, evenly distributing

the croutons that may have fallen to the

bottom of the bowl. Drizzle any remaining

vinaigrette on the salad and serve.

cannellini bean and kale soup

This hearty Tuscan soup is full of flavor. The crinkly, deep-green leaves of

Lacinato kale (also called dinosaur or black kale) are ideal, but any variety of

kale will work. Serve with a crusty baguette. Serves 4

1½ Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 large yellow onion, finely

chopped (1½ cups)

2 medium carrots, peeled and finely

chopped (3/4 cup)

2 medium celery stalks, finely

chopped (3/4 cup)

1½ tsp. minced fresh rosemary

2 Tbs. tomato paste

2 large cloves garlic, minced (1 Tbs.)

1 quart homemade or lower-salt

vegetable broth

2 15-oz. cans cannellini beans,

rinsed and drained

6 oz. lacinato kale, center ribs

removed, leaves chopped (about

4 firmly packed cups)

1 Parmigiano-reggiano or Grana Padano

rind (1x3 inches; optional)

1½ tsp. cider vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground

black pepper

Heat 1 Tbs. of the oil in a 4- to 5-quart pot over

medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery,

and rosemary and cook, stirring occasionally,

until the vegetables begin to soften, about

6 minutes. Add the tomato paste and garlic

and cook until fragrant, 45 seconds. Add the

broth, beans, kale, and cheese rind (if using).

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium

low, and simmer gently until the vegetables

are tender, about 15 minutes.

Stir the cider vinegar into the soup and

season to taste with salt and pepper.

ladle 13/4 cups of the soup into a wide,

shallow bowl, cover, and keep warm.

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