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TEST KITCHENFor ages I thought
Mexican chiles were
fresh, spicy, and green—
jalapeños, serranos, and
poblanos. While working
on Nopalito, Mexican
chef Gonzalo Guzmán’s
new book, I learned
that dried chiles—which
often occupy an entire
wall at Mexican markets—
are the cuisine’s true
workhorses. Flavors range
from punishingly spicy to
sweet and pruney, and the
colors from bright, orangey
red to deep purple-black.
Their differences become
obvious with a little
experimentation.
Combinations of
chiles are traditional in
salsas (see empanadas de
deshebrada de res, pg. 25)
and adobos (a generic
term for a paste made with
reconstituted and puréed
dried chiles), the latter
of which can be stirred
into braising liquids, soup
broths, masa for tortillas,
and marinades.The Language of Spice
Dried chiles are the key to true Mexican flavors
Cook by Color
A bright red chile will
likely have tropical fruit
flavors, good acidity, and
varying degrees of spice
(smaller chiles tend to
be hotter). Dark chiles,
which range from rusty
red to dark plum, are
chewy and sweet like
dried raisins or prunes
and are used mostly for
color (as in moles). Experi-
ment with mild, smoky,
hot, and sweet chiles and
blend with ingredients
like cilantro, vinegar,
tomatoes, tomatillos, and
onions to make salsas and
marinades.Seed and Stem
Many dried chiles have
thick, bitter, or very spicy
seeds; remove them to
make smooth, balanced
purées. To dislodge seeds,
snap off the stems or
split the flesh lengthwise
with a paring knife and
shake each half loose of
stray seeds.Boil Always,
Fry Sometimes
Dried chiles have tough
skins and need to soak in
boiling water for about
20 minutes before they
can be broken down. Much
like toasting spices in a
pan before grinding them,
quick-frying dried chiles in
a thin layer of vegetable
oil, for 30 seconds or so,
is optional but brings out
their most vibrant colors
and deepest flavors.Start Stocking
If you’ve never cooked
with dried chiles before,
stock up on a variety. Ama-
zon (amazon.com) and
Kalustyan’s (kalustyans.
com) both carry an excel-
lent selection. —S.A.MATT TAYLOR-GROSSAbove: A salsa made with
two fried and soaked
chiles: guajillo (a long,
mild red chile with bright
acidity), and the tiny,
very spicy árbol (see
“Masa Appeal,” pg. 22).