Australian_Geographic_-_October_2015_

September–October 2015 99

AREA

14,874sq.km

POPULATION

1,200,000

COASTLINE

706km

2963 m

HIGHEST POINT:

FOHO TATAMAILAU

(MT RAMELAU)

colonisation of Timor-Leste, it is a
spectacular symbol of the country’s
Catholic infl uences. Although Cristo
Rei is the country’s most famous
tourist attraction, the locals also love
this icon. On weekends it is visited by
thousands of Timorese who come to
pray, give thanks, and enjoy the
sensational views.
The connection of the people here
with the sea is evident on every street
corner, with makeshift fi sh markets
and stalls operating directly from the
kerbs, footpaths and even the backs
of motorbikes. Everything from
large pelagic tuna and mackerel to
small tuna and mackerel schoolfi sh
and squid is sold in a simple yet
chaotic drive-by system that somehow
seems to work. The fi sh are caught
fresh every day and on every beach

fi shermen in dugout outrigger canoes

tend to nets and lines.

And that is just Dili. It soon

becomes clear to me that to see the

real Timor-Leste, its way of life and

natural wonders it contains, I will have

to travel far and wide.

O

N ADVICE FROM anyone who

has ever been there, it is clear

I have to make the trek out to

Jaco, a small and uninhabited island

off the most easterly coast. I set aside

three days: although it’s less than

200km away, it will require a full day

of driving along rough sealed roads

and dirt tracks. On my way I pass

through countless villages, some on

the coast, others nestled high in the

mountains. Regardless of the location

of the settlements, the reaction of the

locals to me is the same – smiling,

happy people yelling “hello mister”

and children running alongside the car

cheering as we whizz by. It is moments

like these that make travelling in this

country such a pleasure: you are made

to feel very welcome.

After an eight-hour drive we arrive

at the 900m stretch of water separat-

ing the main island of Timor from

Jaco. Instantly I appreciate why

everyone insisted I come here. The

beautiful beaches of white sand and

sparkling blue waters are deliciously

inviting. For about US$10 I get a

return ride in a dugout to Jaco and

I’m able to enjoy this paradise to

myself. I dive beneath the waves and

the rest of the world seems to melt

away. The beauty and simplicity of

this place overwhelms me.

DESTINATION

TIMOR-LESTE

PEOPLE

Portuguese and Tetum are the

offi cial languages, although

Indonesian and English are also

widely spoken. About 96 per

cent of the population identifi es

as Roman Catholic, which is a

major cultural infl uence, along

with Portuguese and Indone-

sian cultures, on local Timorese

traditions and practices.

MORE INFORMATION:

http://www.timor-tourism.tl/

Remember to check

http://www.smartraveller.gov.au for

safety advice before you travel.

CLIMATE

Timor-Leste has a mostly hot

and humid tropical climate.

May to August is the dry sea-

son and most comfortable time

to travel. Heavy rain during the

November–March wet season

can make roads impassable.

DIRECTORY

GETTING THERE

Airnorth fl ies daily from Darwin

to Dili (visit http://www.airnorth.

com.au for more information).

A ferry operates between Dili

and Atauro Island.

POINTS OF INTEREST

1 Atauro Island

2 Cristo Rei statue

3 Dili, the Timorese capital

4 Maubisse in the highlands

(^5) Foho Tatamailau (Mt Rame-
lau) and nearby Hato Builico
6 Coastal town of Suai
7 Black sand beach at Betano
(^8) Colonial town of Baucau
9 Jaco Island