Australian_Homespun_2014-11

(Elle) #1

Block trimming


1


Trim all the blocks to measure
19in square, raw edge to raw edge,
with the designs centred. Monica
recommends marking the squares
on the blocks before cutting. For the
pieced blocks, measure 9½in out from
each centre seam and for the appliqué
blocks, measure 9½in either side
of the centre marks on the outer
edges of the blocks.

Cutting


2


From the fl oral print border
fabric, cut:


  • Two strips, 7 x 57in down the
    length of the fabric (border)

  • Two strips, 7 x 68in down the
    length of the fabric (border) – see
    Monica’s tips.


3


From the backing fabric, cut:


  • Two strips, 7 x 57in down
    the length of the fabric

  • Two strips, 7 x 68in down the
    length of the fabric (border backing).


4


From the batting, cut:


  • Two strips, 6½ x 57in

  • Two strips, 6½ x 68in.


5


From the red tone-on-tone
fabric, cut:


  • Eight strips, 3in across the
    width of the fabric (binding).


Joining the rows


6


All the joining seams for the quilt
are ½in. This adds strength to the
quilt and allows extra fabric to be
folded over at the back for hand
stitching. It is vital to use the correct
seam allowance or the quilting stencil
won’t fi t. Set up your machine for a ½in
seam allowance. If you don’t have a ½in
marking on the throat plate of the
machine, measure ½in right of the
needle and attach a strip of masking
tape to the throat plate.

7


Lay out the blocks in three rows
of three blocks as shown in the
photograph. They are joined using
various quilt-as-you-go techniques –
see Monica’s tips.
Middle row

8


Match the fi rst two blocks of the
centre row, right sides together.
Separate the layers and pin only the
quilt top layers together. It’s a good
idea to fold the batting and backing
layers back and pin them out of the
way to avoid getting them caught

in the seam accidentally. Sew the
two layers of the quilt top together
with a ½in seam.

9


Press the seam allowance towards
the appliqué block. Put the blocks
face down on the table; you’ll see that
the batting is now too big.

10


Trim the batting away from the
edge of the pieced block so that
it butts up neatly against the applique
one. Cut a 19in length of fusible
batting-seam tape and position it,
rough side down, over the join. To
protect the nylon tape from the heat
of the iron, fold the backing fabric over
it and press the join for three seconds
with a dry iron.

11


Lay the backing fabric of the
pieced block over the join. Fold
the raw edge of the appliqué-block
backing under by ½in and press. Pin
it over the pieced-block backing and
slip stitch it in place. Be careful not to
catch the batting in the stitching near
the top and bottom edges of the block
as the layers need to be separate for
joining the horizontal seams.

12


Repeat Steps 8-11 to join the
other pieced block in the centre
row to the other edge of the centre
appliqué block.
Top and bottom rows

13


Match an appliqué block, right
sides together, with a pieced
block. Separate the batting and
backing fabric from the appliqué block
and pin only the quilt top layer to all
three layers of the pieced block. Attach
the walking foot to the machine and
sew the seam.

14


Press the seam towards the
appliqué block. Put the blocks,
face down, on the table. Trim the
batting away from the edge of the
appliqué block so that it butts up
neatly against the pieced block.

15


Cut a 19in length of batting-
seam tape. Cut it in half down its
length to create two narrow 19in strips.
With the rough side down, lay one
narrow strip of tape over the join,
positioning one edge of the tape beside
the stitching line. Cover the tape with
backing fabric and press it for three
seconds with a dry iron.

16


Fold the raw edge of the appliqué
block backing under to meet the
stitching line of the join and press.
Slip stitch it in place over the seam.

Step 8

Step 9

Step 10

Step 14

Step 15

116 Homespun

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