Diagram 1Flowers with alternating petalsStep 16Step 16 back view14
From the multi-coloured
print fabric, cut:- Nine strips, 2^11 ⁄ 2 in across the
width of the fabric (binding).
Dresden Plate fl owers
Petals15
Fold a wedge in half, right
sides together and long edges
matching. Sew across the longer
end, clip the corner at the fold and
turn the point right side out. Press
it fl at, opening the seam at the back
to minimise bulk. Refer to Diagram 1.
Prepare all the wedges in the same
way, keeping them in colour groups
as they were cut.16
Using one set of 20 wedges
you cut in Step 10, begin by
pinning two petals cut from different
fabrics together on one long edge,
right sides together and wide ends
matching. Sew them together with
a scant^1 ⁄ 4 in seam and press the
seam towards the darker fabric.
Continue adding petals in the same
way, alternating the two fabrics and
pressing the seams towards the
darker fabric each time. The flowers
won’t sit fl at if the seams aren’t
exactly the right size, so if the circle
is fl uted when you’ve sewn all the
petals together, sew some seams
with slightly wider allowances until
it sits fl at. If the centre puffs up,
unpick the seams and re-sew them
slightly narrower until it sits flat.17
Repeat Step 16 to assemble
all fi ve fl owers that have
alternating petals using the
wedges cut in Steps 10 and 11.
Part fl owers18
Using one set of wedges cut
in Step 12, arrange the petals
as desired. Once you’re happy with
the colour and size arrangement,
sew the petals together on the
long edges, this time matching the
narrow ends when the petal lengths
are different. Because these aren’t
complete circles, the width of the
seam allowance is less critical.19
Repeat the previous step to
make another 10 part flowers.20
Centre the flowers randomly
on the 16^1 ⁄ 2 in squares of
fabrics A-F. Pin them in place and
appliqué around the points. For the
part fl owers, turn under a^1 ⁄ 4 in seamallowance on the long edges of the
petals at each end of the arcs and
appliqué them in place too. There’s
no need to stitch around the middle
holes/arcs as they will be covered
by the fl ower centres.21
If you haven’t cut the centres
yet, do so now. Decide
whether to have them all the same
size or not, and whether to fussy cut
them into slightly irregular shapes
if your fabric lends itself to it. If you
decide to make some of them quite
small, remember to allow for the
seam allowance when cutting them.22
Needleturn appliqué the
centres over the holes in the
middle of the fl owers using thread
to match the centre fabric.Leaf appliqué
23
On Carolyn’s quilt, nine of the
leaves are roughly diagonal on
the background squares and four of
them are straighter. Begin by placing
an 8^1 ⁄ 2 in geometric print square over
the leaf design on the Pattern Sheet.
It doesn’t need to be centred if you
don’t want it to be, but ensure that
there is at least 1in around it on all
sides. Using the fabric-marking pen,
trace the leaf design onto the front
of the fabric square. Repeat this
step for all 13 leaves.24
Layer a marked square over
a light print square, with
both fabrics right side up and the
edges matching. Tack the two layers
together on the outer edges and
about^1 ⁄ 2 in either side of the two
leaf outlines and centre vein.25
Working on one section
at a time, use small, sharp
scissors to cut just the top layer of
fabric halfway between the lines
of one leaf outline. Starting near the
middle, sweep one edge of the top
fabric layer under to the marked
line with the needle and appliqué
it in place on the light fabric layer
underneath using thread to match
or blend with the top fabric.
Continue along one side until you
are near one end. Clip to within a
couple of threads of the marked line
at the centre and at an angle each
side of it as needed so that you can
turn the edge under in a smooth
tight curve. If the edge happens to36 HomespunHSP1511_p032-038_Floribunda Project.indd 36 9/22/2014 10:42:10 AM
圀漀爀氀搀䴀愀最猀⸀渀攀琀圀漀爀氀搀䴀愀最猀⸀渀攀琀
圀漀爀氀搀䴀愀最猀⸀渀攀琀