A_M _B_2015_02_03_

106 - AMB

GHET TO TUBELESS

Tubeless is better, you can run lower
pressures, with less rolling resistance. But
how can you make it even more reliable to
help you perform even better?

The answer is: Ghetto Tubeless - The well-
known setup amongst the high flyers of the
elite mountain biking world as an alternative
tubeless system over the typical rim strip
and latex combinations. With so many great
tubeless tape, tyre and liquid products
available on the market, what makes the
‘Ghetto Tubeless’ different, and why would
the pros choose this system over a tried and
trusted commercial product? Well, Shaun
Hughes from Cyclinic is here to answer those
questions and show you how to run the same
tubeless setup as Yeti/Fox pro Jared Graves.

Ghetto Tubeless gets its name from the pretty

stock standard use of resources, to create one

of the most reliable tubeless setups known.

What’s the ‘ghetto’ bit? Well, just walk into

your local bikeshop, and you will find they are

most likely a stockist of a world championship

winning tubeless system, otherwise known as

a 24” or 26” tube.

Unlike most tubeless systems available, Ghetto

Tubeless actually creates a full air tight seal

between your tire and your rim without the

need for large (and heavy) quantities of a latex

liquid to keep it inflated. Secondly, it adds

rubber sealed protection to the outside of the

rim surface to protect your expensive carbon

or alloy rims when racing with super low

pressures or in the event of a un-fixable flat.

Here’s where the fun begins...

Start by flattening the tube in your hands, so that the valve sits on one
flat end. Cut a hole into the tube on the opposite side to the valve, and
proceed to cut along the tube keeping it straight and even around the
entire circumference. That will leave you with a flat piece of inner tube
that you can open up and you should notice the valve sitting more or less
in the centre.

Ensure your rim already has a rim tape installed. You’re then ready to

insert the valve into the rim, keeping it straight by tightening the little

nut around the valve stem. Stretch the inner tube over the full outer

circumference of the wheel and align it in the centre as best as you can.

Just run your fingers between the tube and the rim to perfectly seat it.

Just before you get the final

section of tire on the rim, pore a

small amount of latex liquid into

the tire as required but remember

you should not need to use as

much as you normally would. If

your tube has a removable valve

core, you can put it in through the

valve stem later on once finished.

1. SLICE THE INNER TUBE 2. SEAT THE INNER TUBE
   4. POUR IN SOME LATEX
   3. PUT THE TYRE ON

Next up, we’re going to put on

the tyre, just the same as you

normally would but be careful to

not move or grab the exposed flat

rubber tube in the fitting process.

This can be a little fiddly, but be

patient with it, and use the lines

on the tube to help guide you.

WordS:

PHoToS:

AIdEN LEFMANN ANd SHAUN HUGHES

LACHLAN rYAN

THE ULTIMATE CONVERSION

THE BASICS YOU wILL NEEd:

24” or 26” Tube

Scissors

rim Tape (any).

Latex (not pictured)

Using a compressor and a truing stand

will make the conversion easier.

For the conversion of 26” and 27.5”

wheels, we recommend a 24” tube, and

for 29er wheels, use a 26” tube. You’re

only going to spend about 10-12 bucks on

a tube, so get a decent one like a Maxxis

welterweight, which will have a good

quality valve and core.

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