http://www.ambmag.com.au - 51witzerland is different from the rest of
the world. The country is known to be
‘neutral’ especially due to their stance
in World War Two, but European nations
recognised their neutrality after the
Congress of Vienna in 1815. Formed due to a
protective alliance in the 13th Century, which
became a nation state in 1848, Switzerland and
its people chose to focus on their own traditions,
customs and country. Their pride in their country
and its national fl ag is perhaps matched only by
Americans’.
The mountains act as natural borders that
developed their isolation. But Switzerland is in
the heart of the European Alps, a summer and
winter playground. Switzerland is crossed by
major roads, railways, cog trains, cable cars, bike
paths – and trails. Lots and lots of trails that have
developed since people started to cross the Alps
and their high valleys. The trails run through the
valleys providing access to the towns, but there
are also old trade and even smuggling routes in
the high passes. A little further afi eld, and there
are old military roads that have such a narrow
grading they have become destination rides for
mountain bikers. While the Swiss borders seem
to have been set in stone, they have never truly
stopped the passage of people, goods – and now
riders - who are happy to explore.The Engadine Valley sits within the Graubunden
canton, the largest canton (or state) in
Switzerland. It’s pretty much the whole right hand
side of the blob shape that Switzerland makes
on a map, wedging itself between Austria to the
north, and Italy to the south. While only 200km or
less from Milan, Zurich or Innsbruck – it can also
feel worlds apart.I have visited the Engadine Valley a number of
times. For a few years (ok, eight), I made a habit
out of running away to Europe to ride and race my
bike. The Engadine Valley is a place I was always
drawn back to. In one sense it represents the
regal opulence of Western Europe. The glamour,
glitz and modern lifestyle of the resort town of
St Moritz is matched by traditional architecture
in the old world spa town of Scuol with its
picturesque Engadine houses – lavishly decorated
with sgraffi to, frescoes and oriel windows. But the
valley also holds landscapes that are still wild. It
harbours an ancient language, but also has public
services available in up to fi ve languages. Thereare sealed bike paths that skirt along rivers, and
narrow trails literally carved out of rock faces.The Swiss are very traditional, yet known also
for diversity, as areas often share customs with
the neighbouring countries. But the strength of
the Romansch culture in the Graubunden region
and Engadine Valley is unique. The alpine culture
is nation wide, and the winter skiing is matched
by hiking and mountain biking in summer. Swiss
traditions are slow to change, with the communes
often deciding the fate of a new venture in town,
discussing how it will effect the community.
Downhill trails across the country have been
shut down as they have damaged the forests too
badly. Yet, unless otherwise marked, you can ride
your mountain bike on any walking trail – as long
as you’re capable of doing so. It is an area full of
contrasts.Most of my time in the Engadine Valley has been at
either end – high up near St Moritz and Pontresina
in the west – or down around the spa town of Scuol,
further east towards Austria. Both offer different
riding and holiday experiences, but are just a short
train ride, half-day ride, or short drive apart. Either
location makes a great base, depending on you
preference of resort life or old town charm.