enough focal point in the centre. Trees or people standing in the
centre of the frame make great subjects when shooting from low
angles, giving an undeniably surreal feeling to an image.
Another useful lens I like to shoot with is a telephoto
(I use a Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L USM). This is a great lens
for capturing wildlife, getting up close and personal to birds or
animals, or for capturing an image from a point that might be
inaccessible by foot. Keep in mind a 200mm focal length isn’t
quite long enough for serious wildlife photography – at least not
on a full-frame sensor. If you’re serious about shooting wildlife
then I recommend something in the 400mm to 600mm range.
Macro photography also opens up a whole new realm in the
rainforest. We often forget to stop and look at what’s beneath
our feet. Macro photography can be extremely rewarding in a
forest and the best part is you don’t have to walk very far to find
interesting subjects – get down low and observe the miniature
world. Mind you, don’t f latten a potential macro shot when you
put your bag down, or step on something tiny and beautiful!
If you’re serious about macro photography it’s a good idea to
invest in some Speedlite f lash units because the light can be
challenging in the forest. This will make it easier to shoot fast-
moving insects in low light. Alternatively, a small LED torch can
also add enough fill light to create a great shot.03
Use a polarising filter
I think a polarising filter is the most important item of
equipment you can own apart from your camera and lens. Polarisers
will help reduce the glare on water and saturate the green foliage toAUSTRALIAN PHOTOGRAPHY + DIGITAL JULY 2015 AUSTRALIANPHOTOGRAPHY.COM 29
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