46 Australian Geographic
Work on this $8 million, 50km track began in July 2013 and,
when fi nished, it will circumnavigate the island via numerous
points of historical and ecological interest. Part of its purpose is
to conserve native habitat by keeping walkers to designated areas.
“We’re hoping it’ll become a world-renowned walking trail,”
Roland says. “It will combine inland trails and historical sites,
and link up old farms and culturally signifi cant Aboriginal sites.”
R
OTTNEST HAS NO SHORTAGE of signifi cant sites. The
island was part of the WA mainland 7500 years ago,
during the most recent Ice Age, and artefacts discovered
suggest Aboriginal people could walk back and forth across a land
bridge before sea levels rose about 7000 years ago.
Harriet Wyatt, the RIA’s manager of cultural heritage services,
says that a chert-fl ake cutting tool found here is 27,000 years old.
“It’s signifi cant because there’s no chert deposit on the island.
It had to be brought from elsewhere,” she adds.
European settlement began in 1829. Rottnest was used to
farm everything from livestock and grains to tobacco and fruit,
and salt was harvested from its saline lakes. A decade later, it was
transformed into an Aboriginal penal colony, where some 3700
men and boys were imprisoned during the century that followed.
Harriet believes the prisoners were chosen by the authorities
with the aim of destroying indigenous communities. “There’s
historical evidence that the men brought here were leaders –
medicine men and law men,” she says. Prisoners were forced
into hard labour, quarrying stone and constructing most of the
colonial buildings found in Thomson Bay. Hundreds died and
were buried here and it’s thought that Rottnest accounts for more
Aboriginal deaths in custody than any other site in Australia.
Towards the end of the 19th century, the Rottnest Island
Reformatory for boys was opened next to the prison. The prison
was closed in 1904, although prisoners were used to build roads
and other projects until 1931.
After the last inmates moved of the island in the 1930s, it
started to become a leisure destination. The change in purpose
was signifi ed by the painting over of the blindingly white lime
wash on the buildings with the peach-ochre hue that’s now
synonymous with Rottnest’s historical buildings.
During both world wars, the island was commandeered by
Australian defence forces; in World War I it was used as an
internment camp: in World War II it was developed as a fortress
to protect Fremantle until the focus of defence activities moved
north – the remnant cannons and barracks are now tourist attrac-
tions. All recreational activity was suspended in 1940 until 1945.
After the war, the military units were disbanded and, by
Hundreds died and were buried here and it’s thought
that Rottnest accounts for more Aboriginal deaths in
custody than any other site in Australia.
Perth’s backyard. The RIA runs visitor
accommodation at Geordie Bay. Western
Australia’s Minister for Tourism, Liza Harvey,
has said the government puts additional
funds into Rottnest “from time to time”.