November–December 2015 83happen. We wanted to celebrate
this milestone in 2015 with the
ultimate adventure and prove
that, as John put it: “Old blokes
can still do good stuff.”
Since our university days we’d
taken many kayaking and moun-
taineering trips together and both
felt that paddling around South
Georgia would be a fitting way to
celebrate our coming of age. If
successful, we would be only the
fourth team, and the first Austral-
ian one to complete the trip. As
we launched into the epic task of
planning the expedition we were joined by two mates, Chris
Porter and Jim Bucirde. Even after a lifetime of tackling outdoor
challenges, we knew this would test us at a whole new level.
Our starting point was the abandoned whaling station of
Grytviken, on South Georgia’s north coast and just getting there
was a massive effort. Our kayaks were shipped six months ahead
of us, on a 40,000km roundabout route via Poland, and in
January 2015 we sailed 1400km on the expedition vessel Pelagic
from the Falkland Islands to South Georgia. It was a rough
voyage and when we finally sighted land, clouds hid the moun-
tain peaks and big seas lashed the coast – but nothing could
dampen our excitement upon reaching this wilderness paradise.A
T OUR FIRST campsite,
wind blasted across the
bay, sending smoking
clouds of spray that threatened
to demolish the tent. It had
already been flattened once,
when the kayak we tethered it to
landed on top of us.
We scrambled to secure it with
large rocks and retreated inside,
hoping for better weather. Later, conditions changed from sleet
to sunshine and back to snow as we made slow progress battling
into 30-knot headwinds. We paddled into a sea of fog and mist
past a southern right whale and calf, and found a gloomy camp-
site at Right Whale Bay.
We were immersed in wildlife and the clouds parted
occasionally, revealing jagged peaks towering above. It felt like a
lost world. Pelagic shadowed us throughout the journey, and the
following day, with conditions still dismal, we accepted a lift in
its Zodiac to wait out the storm on board. There aren’t many
vessels suitable for this kind of support mission, but the 17m
steel-hulled Pelagic was purpose-built for polar exploration.Happy campers. Jim, Andrew and
John take advantage of some mild
weather at their camp at Wirik Bay
to rest, eat and organise their gear.Mirounga leonina