H&G
158 / AUSTRALIAN HOUSE & GARDEN
H&G LIVING
IN THE MIX
M
ixed-varietal wines are
experiencing a welcome revival.
Eclectic blends of lesser-known
grape varieties are adding colour and
interest to the wine category, plus classic
varietal mixes continue to offer balance,
harmony and value.
In old wine regions such as France, Italy
and Portugal, it is not uncommon to see
different varieties growing side by side in
the same vineyard. This sometimes
occurred when vine cuttings were
incorrectly identified prior to planting.
In other cases, it may have been an
inexpensive way of establishing a vineyard.
Whatever the reason, it has the benefit of
giving the vineyard a unique character.
Wine made from such vineyards is
sometimes referred to as a ‘field blend’,
and the proportion of varieties in the final
wine is determined by what is planted. For
example, Blind Corner in Margaret River
has a row of viognier in the middle of its
shiraz block, which adds fragrance and
interest to the final wine.
Vineyard blending is just one of three
ways to make a mixed-varietal wine,
however. The most common way is to blend
single varietal wines after fermentation;
combining grapes prior to ferment
(co-fermentation) is another option.
Many winemakers prefer to blend
post-ferment. Using this technique, many
parameters can be adjusted, such as alcohol
level, fruitiness, length, sweetness and oak.Mixed-varietal vineyard blocks are not
very common in modern winemaking
countries such as Australia. Local wines
labelled field blends are often a mix of the
different varieties grown across the whole
property prior to fermentation, in a
proportion determined by the winemaker- essentially a form of co-fermentation.
Look out for the excellent 2015 Cherubino
Laissez Faire Field Blend, $25. A blend of
gewürztraminer, pinot grigio, riesling
and sauvignon gris (a clonal mutation of
sauvignon blanc), it is full-f lavoured and
gentle with soft fruit and spice.
For a premium example of a more
traditional blend, look out for the 2011
Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot, $70. The
individual parcels were vinified and aged
separately, then blended prior to bottling.
It has excellent purity, clarity and harmony.
Also excellent is the Kir Yianni Petra,
$26, a blend of white varieties roditis and
malagouzia from Greece. It is bone dry
with a grapefruity vein.
Blends add colour and energy to a wine
category. A case in point is Australia’s
most well-known wine, Penfolds Grange,
a blend of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon.
And of course, the consistency of non-
vintage Champagne comes from blending
up to three varieties.
Blends, however constructed, offer
an excellent wine adventure, especially
if you have been exclusively buying
straight varietals. #
TONI’S TOP DROPS
2012 Yalumba The Scribbler, $22
A classic Australian blend of cab
sav and shiraz with vibrant red
fruit and richness. Decant prior
to serving to reveal spice and
dark chocolate nuances.
2015 Swinney Tirra Lirra
Riesling Pinot Gris
Gewürztraminer, $30
The varieties were separately
fermented then blended before
ageing. Aromatic complexity, a
little f lesh and steely acidity.
2015 La Prova Bianco, $20
Individually vinified pinot
grigio, fiano and garganega are
skillfully blended to create an
incredibly fresh and balanced
wine with faint fruitiness.
2014 Montevecchio Bianco, $23
A co-fermented field blend
of vermentino, fiano and
moscato giallo. Deliciously
dry and light-bodied with a
little minerality.DRINKS
Explore the world of mixed-varietal
wines and discover blends with
unique character and wonderful
fragrance that are brimming with
fl avour, writes Toni Paterson.
Photograph by Ben Hansen.