With age, Hunter semillon undergoes
a most dramatic transformation. Some
wines retain their youthful flavour
profile while at the same time increasing
significantly in intensity and weight.
Others develop refined nutty nuances
or faint smoky notes. Although it is
satisfying to watch wines change over
the years, don’t despair if you don’t
have space for cellaring as many top
producers sell aged wines at fair prices.
Winemaker Liz Silkman is a semillon
superstar. Her wines are lively, pure and
captivating and well worth seeking out.
Silkman makes wines under the First
Creek label, as well as her own Silkman
Wines, produced in partnership with her
husband Shaun. She also makes wine
for many small producers in the valley.
Semillon made by Mike De Iuliis, of De
Iuliis Wines, is also excellent. # Semillon
prosStyling by Kayla Gex. Photography by Kristina Soljo (main image) & Phillip Castleton/bauersyndication.com.au (vineyard).Recommended drops2016 DE IULIIS SEMILLON, $20 Vivid and racy, the wine has excellent
drive and a defined citrus core. Exceptional value. 2016 TULLOCH HUNTER RIVER WHITE
SEMILLON, $25Elegant in its execution though generous in character despite its youth. Taut, with
juicy-lemon flavours. Delicious and drinking well now. 2015 SILKMAN RESERVE SEMILLON, $35
A classic semillon aroma with delicate blossom top notes and strong citrus tones. Lemony and bright
with excellent palate weight.2012 TYRRELL’S WINES BELFORD HUNTER VALLEY SEMILLON,
$35Gorgeous smoky and nutty tones with excellent flavour and an intense sweet-lemon core.R
efreshing, pure and satisfyingly
dry, Hunter Valley semillon is
renowned for its capacity to age,
evolving through an array of lemon
flavours to develop richer and more
complex toasty and honeyed characters.
But there has been a quiet evolution in
the style of Hunter Valley semillon over
the past few years. The best semillons,
while still built for cellaring, have a bit
more expression on release than seen in
the past, making them enjoyable in their
youth as well as with maturity.
High-quality young semillon is similar
to cool-climate riesling in that it can be
shy at first. It needs time to express itself
after opening. This character is what
makes it so immensely pleasurable and
satisfying to drink, as every sip reveals
a little more flavour and depth.
In their youth, the best wines are tight,
dry and crisp, with softness and gentle
generosity on the mid-palate. Citrus is
the predominant element – either as zest,
juice or sweet, ripe flesh. Subtle blossom
notes can also be present. While some
wines are racy and powerful, others are
delicate and composed.Esteemed family-owned winery
Tyrrell’s Wines produces an
exceptional portfolio of semillon.
High quality is evident from
the entry-level wines right
up to the illustrious
Vat 1 Hunter Semillon,
which is undoubtedly
one of Australia’s
greatest wines.
The 2011
Vat 1 Hunter
Semillon,
$80, is
unmissable,
with pristine citrus
flavours and excellent
depth – drinking well now
and will continue to develop
with time. Also excellent is the
affordable 2016 Hunter Valley
Semillon, $25, with its classic
structure, bright palate and softness.
The three single-vineyard wines,
Belford, Stevens and HVD, are
delightfully contrasting in style and
clearly illustrate the importance of
the vineyard site. Enjoy the lemon
curd notes of the 2011 HVD, the
richness and texture of 2012 Belford
and the sweet-lemon and spice of
2011 Stevens, $35 each. Tyrrell’s
offers its club members pre-release
purchase of Vat 1 and the three
single-vineyard wines.Meet the maker
One of Australia’s oldest wine
styles, Hunter Valley semillon
has a well-founded reputation
for quality, writesToni Paterson.Drinks
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