SPECTATOR WINE JONATHAN RAY
A
wonderful offer from Berry Bros &
Rudd, this. Wine-loving readers will
know that once or twice a month
we hold Spectator winemakers’ lunches at
22 Old Queen Street. A well-known wine-
maker will bring some wines and chat about
them to a maximum of 14 readers over lunch
in the boardroom.
These entertaining affairs must surely be
the best value in town: just £75 a pop for four
courses of jolly fine grub and as much wine
as you can drink; not to mention the chance
to chat to some of the world’s leading win-
emakers and to meet like-minded Speccie
readers. Little wonder that we always have
to flick the lights to turf folk out as afternoon
turns into evening.
Anyway, the point I’m getting to is that
Mark Walford was our most recent vigneron
and brought with him wines from Le Soula,
the remarkable organic/biodynamic estate
high in the Fenouillèdes mountains of south-
west France. All of us present were blown
away by the wines’ freshness, by their indi-
viduality, their concentration, their complex-
ity and their, well, downright tastiness. I just
knew we had to offer them here.
The 2011 Le Soula Blanc (1) is a blend of
nine different low-yielding, hand-harvested
varieties (Sauvignon, Vermentino, Grenache
Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Chardonnay,
Macabeu, Malvoisie du Roussillon and
Grenache Gris), from centuries-old vine-
yards where no herbicides, pesticides or
chemical fertilisers are used. Thanks to
high altitude (sunny but cool) the wine has
a freshness to it, as well as a touch of oak.
£21.00, down from £24.95.
The 2011 Le Soula Rouge (5) is a blend
of the traditional southern French varieties
of Carignan (mainly), Syrah and Grenache,
aged for 22 months in both tank and oak.
Poor soils mean low yields, and low yields
mean concentrated fruit. And as with the
white, high-altitude vineyards mean luscious-
ly ripe fruit coupled with a refreshing acidity.
£21.00, down from £24.95.
Le Soula Blanc Maceration No. 14NV
(2) is like nothing we had tasted before, an
orange wine made from Macabeu and Ver-
mentino. Treated like a red wine, it has 12
days’ skin contact and is then aged in oak
casks for 18 months. It’s extremely resistant
to oxidation and can be left open for days —
weeks even — without deteriorating. There
Carignan from the Coteaux du Langue-
doc, some 25 miles north of Montpelier.
There is plenty of dark fruit here, along with
minerality and a liquorice-like backbone. It’s
gracefully balanced and hugely sought-after
and Berrys’ have made a particular effort
with the price. £19.50, down from £29.95.
Finally, we’ve a brace of first-class, well-
priced Languedoc varietals from the ever-
reliable Ournac brothers at Domaine
Coudoulet.
The 2016 Domaine de Coudoulet Viog-
nier (4) is absurdly enjoyable, full of apri-
cots, peaches and honeysuckle with a
long dry finish. £10.00, down from £11.70.
The 2016 Domaine de Coudoulet Pinot
Noir (7) is impressive: succulent, plum-
my and blackberry-ripe with a whistle-
clean finish. £10.00, down from £11.50.
The mixed case has two bottles of each
wine, except wines 2 and 3, of which there is
one each. Delivery, as ever, is free.are notes of mandarin peel on the nose, and
plenty of citrus and crunchy apples on the
palate. £21.00, down from £24.95.
As Le Soula’s wines are in short supply,
we’ve added four others to make up a cork-
ing southern French mixed case. The 2012/13
Mas Champart Blanc (3), made from 80 percent Terret (late-picked from 110-year-old
vines) and 20 per cent Grenache Gris —
two trad Languedoc varieties — is a belter.
Dry but with honeyed, slightly spicy fruit
and hints of fresh and poached pears, it has
a long, almost savoury, finish. £15.50, down
from £18.25.
The 2012 Mas Jullien Terrasses de Lar-
zac (6) is a punchy, concentrated and intense
blend of old vine Syrah, Mourvèdre andPlease send wine to
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Issue no. Signature Prices include VAT and delivery on the
British mainland. Payment should be
made either by cheque with the order,
payable to Berry Bros. & Rudd, or by
debit or credit card, details of which
may be telephoned or faxed. This offer,
which is subject to availability, closes
on 12 May 2017.ORDER FORM^ Spectator Wine Offer
http://www.spectator.co.uk/wine-club
Berry Bros. & Rudd, Hamilton Close, Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire RG21 6YB
Tel: 0800 280 2440; Fax: 01256 247913; Email: [email protected]*Only provide your email address if you would like to receive offers or communications by email from The Spectator (1828) Limited, part of the Press Holdings
Group. See Classified pages for Data Protection Act Notice. The Spectator (1828) Limited, part of the Press Holdings Group would like to pass your details on
to other carefully selected organisations in order that they can offer you information, goods and services that may be of interest to you. If you would prefer that
your details are not passed to such organisations, please tick this boxR.These wines are from centuries-old
vineyards where no herbicides
or pesticides are usedPrices in form are per case of 12 List price Club price No.
White 1 2011 Le Soula Blanc, 12.5%vol £299.40 £252.00
2 Le Soula Blanc Maceration No. 14 NV, 13.5%vol £299.40 £252.00
3 2012/13 Mas Champart Blanc, 14%vol £219.00 £186.00
4 2016 Domaine de Coudoulet Viognier, 13.5%vol £140.40 £120.00
Red 5 2011 Le Soula Rouge, 12.5%vol £299.40 £252.00
6 2012 Mas Jullien Terrasses de Larzac, 13.5%vol £359.40 £234.00
7 2016 Domaine de Coudoulet Pinot Noir, 13.5%vol £138.00 £120.00
Mixed 8 Sample case, two bottles of 1, 4, 6, 5, 7; one of 2 and 3 £249.30 £199.50Total