goodthingsmagazine.comLUXURY ESCAPES123to make gozinaki dessert, and stuffed into
roasted egplant rolls, badrijani nigvzit –
which is a classic Georgian appetiser.- A 'PIZZA' KUBDARI
If khachapuri is the best melted cheese
sandwich you’ve never had, then kubdari
is surely the best calzone. A speciality of
the mountainous Svaneti region, these
Georgian-style pizzas are made with a
khachapuri-like dough stuffed with a
mix of spiced minced meat and onions. - ALAVERDI MONASTERY
Ringed by vineyards, Alaverdi Cathedral is
Georgia’s second-tallest church. Situated
near to Telavi in the fertile wine-growing
Kakheti area, its monks have produced
wine on the premises using traditional
Qvevris (clay vessels) for the past 1,500
years. Central to religious worship, it’s
not uncommon to find vine ornaments on
the facades and walls of monasteries and
churches across the country. - CLAY-MOULDING CUSTOMS
Fourth-generation Qvevri makers Remi
Kbilashvili and his son Zaza (le) from
Vardisubani village have a waiting list for
their ceramic vessels, which can take up
to three full months to cra. Aer Remi
soens the clay, Zaza adds a 10cm layer
of clay to a giant pitcher every four days,
before firing it up in a 1,800°C oven and
‘smoking’ it in the kiln for a second time
to kill any bacteria. Finally, the inside of
the vessel is sealed with beeswax. - THE OLD TRADITIONS
The oldest terracoa wine vessel dates
back some 8,000 years, so it’s no
wonder that Qvevri wine has been
afforded UNESCO intangible world
heritage status. Zaza’s pride and joy
may not be quite as old, but the vats
still ferment wine in the traditional
way – buried in the ground, filled with
fermented juice, skin and seeds, le for a
fortnight, and closed tight with a stone lid. - MOUNTAIN CHEESES
Georgia’s cheesemakers are held in
the same esteem as vintners. Mako
stirs chkinti kveli cheese in a vat of
salty water, containing the dried
stomach of a baby cow – a traditional
fermentation method used in Ushguli
(Europe’s highest continually-inhabited
village). The solution is extracted, added
to new milk, and warmed on Mako’s
kitchen stove until it turns into cheese.
Wizz Air flies from London Luton to Kutaisi
in Western Georgia. For further info, visit
Georgia Tourism Board @georgia.travelGeorgia_MATT_CH_v2CATHY ZP.indd 123 04/04/2017 20:44