Good_Things_Magazine_AprilMay_2017

goodthingsmagazine.com

OUT & ABOUT

31

W

hen a two-Michelin-starred

chef offers to cook anything

you like, ‘overwhelmed’ is an

understatement. When our

charming hostess Helen Everi-Mahias

quietly sugests that her husband David (le )

is happy to indulge any Friday night cravings,

my mind goes blank. But, having already

inspected the menu, I’m more than happy

with his carefully edited selection.

The venue

There’s nothing flashy here. The restaurant is

small and, although the décor is a lile dated,

we’re here for the food, so the colour of the

walls seems of lile importance. I’ve been to

enough pretentious establishments where the

artwork is more interesting than what’s on

the plate – this is definitely not the case

at Le Champignon Sauvage.

The food

David Everi-Mahias has quite a reputation

and is o en described as ‘the chef’s chef’ with

a legion of awards to his name. The restaurant

is currently listed as one of Britain’s top 10,

and, in 30 years of trade, David and his wife

Helen have never missed a single service.

David’s roots are firmly grounded in

French cuisine, but he likes to add his own

signature with interesting foraged ingredients

he collects himself. The lile stonecrop leaves

are on the plate because they add something

special, rather than to box-tick a trend.

Our meal starts with a wonderful appetiser

of parsley mousse topped with white onion

and bacon. Who knew the humble herb could

taste so good? Starters of scallops and maple

glazed chicken wings with woodruff, and

mackerel with Salcombe crab are both fine

examples of David’s simple-but-somehow-

complex creations. My main of beautifully

cooked Brecon venison with walnut granola

is delicious, but my husband’s miso-glazed

cod with a wonderful geranium and coconut

broth instils food envy – this dish is the star

turn of the entire meal.

To finish, I let David choose from the 30

cheeses on the groaning cheeseboard and

enjoy half-a-dozen lile morsels of heaven.

My sweet-toothed husband raves about the

blueberry cannelloni with wood sorrel cream

• and continues to do so to anyone who’ll
  listen for prey much the whole weekend.

24-28 Suffolk Road, Cheltenham GL50 2AQ •01242 573449 •lechampignonsauvage.co.uk

THE VERDICT

This is one for the top of your foodie wish

list. David has an inspired palate that

combines ingredients to great effect.

I’ve never thought ‘wow’ quite so many

times during one meal. I loved it.

★ ★ ★ ★ ★

A la carte, three courses £67.

Set dinner menu, three courses £34

Dispatches from the dining table

Le Champignon Sauvage

Carole Hamilton is filled with admiration for the stunning food that’s created

in a very small Cheltenham kitchen by one of Britain’s great chefs

Image: Lisa Barber

Restaurant_Le_Champignon_Sauvage_MATTZPCathy ZP.indd 31 05/04/2017 10:40